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THE
GARDEN MAGAZINE
Devoted to Planting and Managing the Grounds About the Home and to the Cultivation of Fruits, Vegetables and Flowers
Volume XXI
February, 1915, to July, 1915
GARDEN CITY NEW YORK
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1915
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INDEX TO THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Volume XXI — February, 1915, to July, 1915
Copyrighted, 1915, by'DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO.
The asterisk (*) signifies that the subject is illuslraled
Accessories for Anybody’s Garden, 290.*
Adams, H. S., article by, 205.
J. Mortimer, article and photo- graph by, 100.
Alaskan Flower Garden, An, 38.* Alfalfa, cutting, 10.
“Alpine” House, The, 87.*
Anemone, St. Brigid, 102.
Angell, H. E., photograph by, 294. Annuals for Late Bloom, 238. Anthfacnose on Blackberries, 10. peonies, 213.*
Aphis, black, on nasturtiums, 196. Apple, The Opalescent 52.
Apples, Choice Summer, 262.* Dwarf, for the Home Garden, 85.* for Pennsylvania, 35. varieties to grow, 104.
Ashes, fertilizing value of, 10.
hardwood, 244.
Asparagus, cutting, 244.
Aster trouble, 34.
Asters grown under cloth, 100.*
Lice on, 34.
Avenel, John, article by, 87. Babcock, E. B., photographs by, 210,
2T 1.
Baldwin, S. Prentiss, article by, 54. Barberry, Pruning, 68.
Barron, Leonard, article by, 154. Baskets, Hanging, for Porch and Window, 289.*
Bastin, S. Leonard, articles by, 112, 289.
photographs by, 86, 289.
Bean, 80.*
Beet, 80.*
Begonia, new, 77.*
Begonias, Tuberous, from Seed, 48.* Bellflower, peach-leaved, 118.* Berberis Sinensis, 216.
Bird bath, 290,* 291.*
Black Disease on Delphiniums, 264. Blackberries, varieties to grow, 106. Blackberry, anthracnose on, 10. Blanchard, W. C., article and photo- graphs by, 38.
Blue flowers, 196.
prints, garden plans, 13, 16, 17, 20, 21, 24, 25.
B. McG., article by, 264.
Book Reviews, 274.
Border, herbaceous, plans for, 16, 17. Borders, planting plans for succession of bloom in herbaceous, 15 1, 132, IS3-.
Botrytis disease on peonies, 212.* Bridge graft, new way to, 130.
Bud blight on peonies, 212.*
Budding, 68.
Buddleia, April cover, 134,* 153.* Bugs of Spring, War on the, 91.*
Bulb bed, lime on, 68. manure on, 10. plantings, permanent, 196.
Bulbs, narcissus, increasing, 10.
spring, planted in winter, 10. Burdock, 267.*
Calliopsis and Cassia, 124.
Canna, propagating, 165.
Carnations, March cover, new, 79.*
Carter, Mrs. C. Shirley, article by, 297.
Cassia and Calliopsis, 124.
Cattleya, May cover.
Queen of the Belgians, 236, and May cover.
Cauliflower, aiding to head, 217. Cheesecloth protection, 88.*
Cherry, varieties to grow, 106. Chrysanthemum Records, New, 133. Clark, F. L., article by, 292.
Harold, articles by, 33, 248, 298. Club and Society News, 34, 128, 188, 234, 268,* 297.
Conard, Henry S., article and photo- graph by, 34.
Consider the Lilies, 283.*
Corn, 80.*
Cover crops in fruit garden, 288. Crabapples, varieties to grow, 104. Cultivation by trowel, 252.* in home fruit garden, 283. Currants, varieties to grow, 106. Cuttings, when to plant, 244. Cypripedium indoors, 217.*
Dahlias, grafting, 163.* how not to plant, 34. not blooming, reasons for, 89, 166. Damp places, plants for, 10. Dandelion, 267.*
Dasheens Grown on Long Island, 178.*
Davenport, Gertrude C., article by, 178.
Dean, Ruth, articles and plans by, 90. 136, 209, 261, 293.
Delphinium Black Disease, 264. Dendrobium, new, 79.*
Doogue, L. J., article and photo- graphs by, 126.
Dooryard Garden, plan for, 90.
Duffy, A. W., article and photo- graphs by, 1 16.
Duncan, Frances, story by, 93, 167, 221, 266.
Dunlap, Orrin E., photograph by, 208. Dyer, Walter A., article by, 52. Dynamite digging, 68.
Eldredge, A. G., article by, 163.
photographs by, 26, 130, 163, 203, 206, 232, 290.
Elm, The Globe-Headed, 120.* Endive, French, for forcing, 166.* Engine, hot air, for pumping, 294.* English Rockeries, 30.
Evergreens as a Screen on a Hillside Site, 23.*
rapidity of growth, 68.
Farrington, E. I., articles by, 86, 166.
photographs by, 166, 293. Fedder, Raymond L., article and photograph by, 217.
Fern, new, 77.*
Ferns as vegetable, 33.
Fertilizer, commercial, 244.
in small fruit garden, 288. Fertilizing the Garden, 264.
F. H., article and photograph by, 120.
Fighting F rost with Water and Smoke, 162.*
Finding the Shrub to Fit the Place, T57-
Flower Show, Triumphs of the Spring, 218,* 219.*
Flowers, shipping cut, 68.
Forcing, French endive, 166.*
Formal Garden for Fragrance, plan for, 20.
Fragrance, Formal Garden for, 19. Fraser, Samuel, article and photo- graphs by, 85.
Frost, protection against, 162.*
Fruit for Every Man’s Garden, 104.
Fruit Garden in Summer, The Home, 286.*
in the Fruit Garden, Getting, 207.* trees, grafting, 86.*
Gall, root or crown, on raspberries, 244-
Garden Clubs in the United States, 188, 234, 268, 297. of America, Baltimore Meeting of, 297.
variety tests in, 54.
Fertilizing, 264.
plans, blue prints of, 13, 16, 17, 20, 21, 24, 23. seat, 290,* 292.*
Gardening for Young Folks, 92,* 164,* 220,* 267.*
Gazing globes, 196, 290.*
Geranium, 27.*
Gibson, Mary L., article and photo- graph by, 265.
Gilkey, H. E., article by, 210. Gladiolus, how not to plant, 34. new, 77.*
Gob for mulching, 34.
Gooseberries, varieties to grow, 106. Grafting dahlias, 163.* for the Amateur, 112.*
Fruit Trees Made Easy, 86.*
Lilac on Privet, 136.
Grape leaf hopper, 298.
Grapes, varieties to grow, 106. Graves, N. R., photographs by 15, 50, 82, 89, 118, 211, 286, 287.
Gray, William, article by, 28. Greenhouse for alpine plants, 87.* Proper Glass for, 68.
Ground Covers, Plants for, 114.
Hamblin, Stephen F., article and plans by, 19.
Hardy Perennials for Landscape Use,
32.
Haxton, Fred, article and photograph by, 40.
Hay, salt, 10.
Hedrick, U. P., article and photo- graphs by, 262.
Hemerocallis, 108.*
Hills of Snow, Green, 216.
Holly, Japanese, 88.
Hollyhock disease, 68.
Hydrangea, French hybrid, 77.*
Ilex crenata, 88.
International Garden Club, The, 268.* Irrigation, overhead, for the small garden, 238.*
Jenkins, W. H., article by, 224. Johnson, E. S., articles by, 106, 124. Jones, Charles, photographs by, 27, 29.
Donald F., article by, no.
Kerr, G. W., photograph by, 29. Kimball, W. S., photographs by, April cover, 155.
Knotweed in lawns, 10.
Kruhm, Adolph, articles by, 56, 80. photographs by, 80, 81.
Lady slipper indoors, 217.* “Landscape Extension” in the Mid- dle West, 42.
Landscaping of Peridot, The, 12.* Laughlin, E. V., article by, 264.
Leaf blotch on peonies, 213.*
Leible, F. C., charts by, 151, 132, 153-
Lettuce, 81.*
Lice on, 34.
Levick, Edwin, photographs by, 218, 219.
Lice on Asters, 34.
Lettuce, 34.
Lilies, history of, 283.*
How Everybody Can Have, 210.* Lily pond, 216.*
Lime and strawberries, 163. for roses, 196. on sour soil, 10. the bulb bed, 68.
Loring and Leland, article by, 290. Loveless, Alfred J., article by, 217.
McCollom, W. C., article by, 48. McFarland, J. H., photographs by, 79, 210.
Manure, Hen, Preservation of, 248. on Bulb Bed, 10. poultry, 10.
Mattern, J. R., articles by, 26, 207, 286.
plan by, 25.
Miller, C. H., photograph by, 294.
Wilhelm, article by, 42.
Miltonia, New, 77.*
Monkshood from seed, 136.
Month’s Reminder, The 27, 73, 147, 203, 251, 296.
Moran, N. M., article by, iso. Morrison, B. Y., article by, 13. plans by, 16.
Mosaic disease on peonies, 213.* Mulching, gob for, 34.
home fruit garden in summer, 286
Narcissus, double white poet’s, 165. Nasturtiums, black aphis on, 196. Nitrate of soda, 244.
Nolte, Fhineas, article by, 248. Northend, M. H., article by, 216.
O’Kane, W. C., photographs by, 91 Onion, 81.*
Orchard, grass or clover in, 196.
smudge in the, 162.
Orchards, The Waiting Game in, 292.
Paper Pots. 68.
Partnership Garden planting plans for, 156.
Patterson, J. M., articles by, 4, 96, 174, 230, 272, 298.
Pea, 80.*
Peach, varieties to grow, 104.
Pear Tree Psylla, The, 248.
Pears, varieties to grow, 104.
Peas from June 7th to July 5th, 170. Garden, Supports for, 238. planting table, 88.
Pennsylvania, Apples for, 35.
Peonies, diseases of, 213.* best pink, white and red, 182. in Health, Keeping, 212.*
Pepper, J. FL, article by, 77.
photographs by, 28, cover design, March.
Perennials for the Wild Garden, A Hundred Native, 214.* hardy, planting table of, 32. Peridot, The Landscaping of, 12.* Phillips, Wm. Q., article by, 165. Pierson, W. R., article and photo- graph by, 190.
Plan for a square corner lot, 209.
seven-acre country place, 261. suburban garden, 295.
INDEX TO GARDEN MAGAZINE
Hanning a Fruit Garden to Fit, 26.* Feature Gardens for Special Effects, 19-
Plant “booster” of cheesecloth, 88.*
Planting a Border for the Indian Summer, 17.
and Shaping Young Trees, 160.* plan, entrance, 21. evergreens, 24. for dooryard garden, 90.
succession of bloom in her- baceous borders, 15 1, 152, 153-
formal garden, 20. fruit gardens, 25. garden dwarf shrubs, 24. herbaceous border, 16. late flowering border, 17. partnership garden, 156. rose garden, 20.
25-acre plot, 13. table, flower seed, 31.
for the Vegetable Garden, 30. hardy perennials, 32. native perennials, 214.* shrubs, 157. vegetables for five, 81. the Herbaceous Borders for Suc- cession of Boom, 151.
Plants, Dirt Bands for Starting, 216. for damp places, 10. poor soil, 265.* shady places, 155.
Plums, Japanese and Domestica, 244. varieties to grow, 106.
Polk, Lucy B., article by, 166.
Poor soil, planting for, 265.*
Porch, hanging baskets for, 289.*
H. N., photographs by, 27, 202
Potash, substitute for, 136.
Potato seed, 34.
Pots, paper, 68.
Poultry manure, 196.
Practical Plans for the Home Grounds, 90,* 156, 209,* 261,* 295.*
Primulas, The Charming Hardy, 205.*
Privet, Amoor River, 68.
Propagating lilies, 210.* the canna, 165.
Protecting plants from frost, 162.*
Pruning barberry, 68. bush fruits, 27.* fruit tree, 287. roses, 226. spring, 161.
Radishes, making soil for, 35.
Ram, automatic, 257,* 294.* Ramsdell, W., article by, 162. Ranunculus, Persian, 102. Raspberries, root or crown gall of, 244-
varieties to grow, 106.
Rawley, Mrs. John, article by, 124. Rhubarb, forcing in winter, 34.* Richardson, Mary T., article by, 238. Richie, W. H., article and plan by, 23.
planting tables by, 32, 137. Roberta of Roseberry Gardens, 93, 167, 221, 266.
Robinson, Effie M., articles by, 122, 184.
Geo. L., articles by, 257, 293. Rockeries, English, 50.
Rockwell, F. F., articles by, 6, 83, 228, 258.
photographs by, 149. planting table by, 31.
Rollins, E. R., photographs by, 83,
84, 259, 260.
Root gall on peonies, 213.*
Rosa xanthina, 292.
Rose Bug Routed at Last, The, 224. garden, plan for, 20.
Starting a, 150.*
June cover.
Society’s Trial Garden, The, 48. The Story of the Modern, 253.* Roses, ensuring success with, 126. fence of, 166. lime for. 196. new, 78,* 79.
Pruning and Feeding, 226.
Show, Producing, 190.* varieties of, 124.
Rutledge, Archibald, articles by, 82, 162, 238, 264. photograph by, 82.
Rutter, Fred, photograph by, 287.
Saunders, A. P., article by, 182. Seakale, 27.*
Seashore gardening, 34.
Seed-drills and Wheel-hoes, About,
83.*.
Sowing Table for the Flower Gar- den, 31.
tuberous begonias from, 48.* Seedlings, spindly growth, 244.
Shady Strip, What Shall We Do With the, 155.
Shaping young trees, 160.*
Shaw, Ellen Eddy, articles by, 92, 164, 220, 267.
Shrubbery, 159.*
Sinclair, Gladys H., article by, 15. Smalley, F. R., photograph by, 255. Snapdragon, new, 77.*
Soil, Making Garden, 264.
Mixing Explained, 116.* planting for poor, 265.*
Sorrel, winter, 217.
Southerners’ Reminder, 4, 96, 174, 230, 272, 298.
Spirea, hedge of, 159.*
Spraying, 207.* 208.*
Spring, Florence, article by, 108.
work, photographs of, 149. Stapleton, Leila B., article and photo- graph by, 216.
Steele, Fletcher, articles by, 12. plan by, 13.
Stone, Pitt, article by, 120. Strawberries, 196. and lime, 165.
Enemies that Attack, 216. Strawberry Seedlings, Starting, 217.
The Lure of the, 82.*
Sturtevant, Robert S., article by, 17. Suggestions for the Home Table, 46, 122, 184.
Sumach, Venetian, no.*
Sundial, 290.*
setting properly, 196.
Sunflower, A Tall, Brilliant Red, Annual, 217.*
Sweet Peas, Growing Exhibition Quality, 28.*
when to plant, 244.
Taylor, Norman, planting table by, 214.
Thistle, 267.*
Three-Tier Herbaceous Border, A, IS-*
Tillage in home fruit garden, 286.
Tithonia, 217.*
Tomato, 81.*
Tools, Buying and Keeping, 6. feminine, 96.
seed-drills and wheel-hoes, 83.* special garden, 228.
Transplanting fruit bushes 136. Tree label, 40.*
Trees, Young, Planting and Shaping, 160.*
Troth, H., photographs by, 26, 83, 88. Trowel cultivation, 252.*
Urn, cement, 292.*
Van Gelder, A., article by, 114. Vegetable garden, how to commence,
13G
Making Plans for, 56. planting tables for, 30. starting, 244.
Vegetables grown by a time table, 80.* spring frosts among, 162.
Wallis, E. J., photograph by, 285. Water for the Garden and Home, 293.* lily, new winter-blooming, 79.* Supply, The Suburban, 257.* tower, 257.*
Weed, Clarence M., article by, 217. Weeds, common, 267.*
Well head, concrete, 293.*
W. H. E., article by, 96.
Wheel-hoes, 83.*
Whetzel, H. H., article by, 212.
photographs by, 212, 213. Whitten, J. C., article and photo- graphs by, 160.
W. H. S., article and photographs by, 163-
Wild gardens, 100 native perennials for, 214.
Wilkinson, A. E., planting tables by, 30, 104.
Wilson, E. H., articles by, 253, 283.
H. E., article by, 88, 170. Windmill, 257.*
Window garden, novel, 166.
Wolcott, Eleanor L., article by, 50.
Youngs, Mary, articles by, 188, 234, 268, 297.
Yucca, dividing, 10.
15 Cents a Copy
FEBRUARY, 1915
iiT in <ni.ii' <rgBi
Hi XXI, No. 1
lO’ANNIVERSARY
NUMBER.
CARDEN
PLANNING
MANUAL
ffluepmffiatiting^Bans
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Rose Garden Shrub Garden Fruit Garden Entrance Screens Perennial Borders A Formal Garden for Fragrance |
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A |4% 1 %r § 91 |
COUNTRY LIFE IN AMERICA
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO.
Chicago GARDE N'CITY, N.Y. New York
THE WORLD’S WORK
Seedsmen
By Appointment.
To
His Majesty King George V.
Make your Beds and Borders a blaze of glorious colour during the Summer months by sowing
SUTTON’S
Charming ANNUALS
EASILY GROWN FROM SEED
Per Packet
24c
12c
. 24c
Sutton’s Large Flowered Salpiglossis
Blooms of this lovely Annual were included in our Exhibit at the last Great Chelsea Show and were much admired by Her Majesty Queen Alexandra who graciously accepted a spray from our senior partner.
CLARKIA ELEGANS Per Packet
Sutton’s Firefly 24c
Sutton’s Double Salmon 12c
DIMORPHOTHECA
Aurantiaca 24c
ESCHSCHOLTZIA
Sutton’s Ruby King 24c
Sutton’s Rosy Queen 12c
GODETIA
Sutton’s Double Rose .... 24c
LARKSPUR
Sutton’s Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 24c
LAVATERA
Rosea Splendens 24c
MIGNONETTE
Sutton’s Giant 24c
NASTURTIUM (Dwarf)
Sutton’s Salmon Pink 24c
NEMESIA
Sutton’s large-flowered mixed 36c
NIGELLA
Miss Jekyll 24c
POPPY
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SALPIGLOSSIS (Illustrated)
Sutton’s Large- flowered mixed . . 24c
Collection of the 17 varieties named for $3 All Flower Seeds value $ 2.50 post free to America
Full particulars of the best varieties of Flower Seeds, Vegetable Seeds, etc., will be found in
Sutton’s New Garden Seed Catalog
Beautifully Illustrated
Post free 35 cents, which will be refunded on receipt of an order amounting to not less than $5. If you have not received a copy write at once to
SUTTON & SONS
The King’s Seedsmen
Reading England
or to Messrs. WINTER, SON & COMPANY
62 Wall Street, New York
Sole Agents for Sutton & Sons in the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains ; with whom is associated Mr. H. S. COLT, the famous Golf Course Architect.
CHRYSANTHEMUM. (Summer Flowering)
Sutton’s Eastern Star ....
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CANDYTUFT
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February, 1915
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
1
Centaurea Imperials
Farquhar’s Flower Seeds
Are Universally Recognized for Quality
R. & J. FARQUHAR & CO.
9 So. Market Street Boston, Mass.
Our personal acquaintance with the leading specialists in the Horticultural World places us in a position to obtain the best the market affords.
We aim to supply only seeds of the highest vitality and uniform quality.
Centaurea Imperialis (Giant Cornflower)
This charming annual is very popular for summer bedding and cutting. The handsome, fragrant blossoms are invaluable for table decoration.
Collection of 8 varieties, 50 cents.
Eschscholtzia ( California Poppy)
Farquhar’s Special Mixture. Including all the new shades. Packet .10; j oz. .50.
A complimentary copy of our Garden Annual for 1915 mailed on request.
Your
Generous
Response
to our request for the names and addresses of our old custom- ers that were lost when our office was destroyed in November has been most gratifying.
With the exception of a few rare varieties of Gladioli that were destroyed in the fire, we shall be able to supply our customers as usual.
Our 1915 Catalogue is now ready
M ay we send you a copy?
B. Hammond Tracy
Box 27, Wenham, Mass.
for 1915 is, as usual, the brightest, most beautiful and helpful rose catalog pub- lished.
And this year it tells you in delightful vein, what happened to the office goat when his diet was changed from “kicks” to testimonials. It also contains a colored photo of the goat, taken after the trans- formation.
Mailed to intending purchasers, on re- quest; to anyone, on receipt of 10 cents (to assure appreciation) in coin or stamps.
GEORGE H. PETERSON
Rose and Peony Box 50
Specialist Fair Lawn, N. J.
If you wish to systematize your business the Readers’ Service may be able to offer suggestions
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
Wouldn’t You Rather Live on the Side of the Street that Moons’ Trees Are On?
II This street in Philadelphia is planted with shade trees from Moons’ Nurseries. The usual bareness and sunny glare have vanished on the tree side; houses there will rent for more and tenants stay longer, f It pays to plant trees — in money returns as well as in the pleasure one gets from their shade and beauty. If Moons’ trees have a vigor of growth and shapeliness of form that make them look well and trans- plant well. There is a wide range of sizes, and varieties'for Every Place and Purpose. IfApril is the month for planting shade trees, but arrangements for their purchase should be made now. Send for catalog that describes and lists Moons’ Trees as well as other Hardy Nursery Stock for Spring planting.
THE WILLIAM H. MOON
PHILADELPHIA OFFICE: Room B, 21 S. 12th’ Street
COMPANY
Makefield Terrace, MORRISVILLE, PA.
A noble group of hardy plants that send up graceful spikes, six to ten feet high, with terminal flowerspikes of great beauty, from two to four feet long, bearing hundreds of flowers. The most lovely July flowering va- rieties. We highly recommend them as being not only among the most beautiful but the most robust and free flowering of plants. They increase most rapidly and thrive under most any condition, the colors are the most delightful soft shades of pink and white that harmonize so beautifully with many of the paler shades in the herbaceous border during July. Extra Heavy Clumps to bloom this July, $3.00. Send for catalogues JOHN SCHEEPERS & CO., Inc., High Class Bulbs Exclusively, 2 Stone Street, New York
The advertising pages of The Garden Magazine are as interesting as the text. The text pages tell you how to do things, when to do things and with what — the advertising pages tell you where to buy these things.
How can we better serve you in these advertising pages ?
We welcome suggestions from our readers as to offer- ings they desire to have placed before them and will as well welcome constructive criticism of the advertis- ing as it now appears. If you have a suggestion be so kind as to let us have it. We will thank you.
The advertiser who uses these pages has confidence in The Garden Magazine’s business-producing power and the only way he has of knowing that the adver- tising in these pages interests you is by your mention- ing The Garden Magazine in your response.
— The Ad Man.
Eremurus - El wesianus
The Readers’ Service will give information about automobiles
CONSTANT CULTIVATION FOR CROP INSURANCE
In Your Orchard
Light
Powerful
The Universal Motor Cultivator
Equipped with Extra Set of Wide Tires for Work in Soft Meadows or Muck Land
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The Only Motor Cultivator
The Universal is developed from the light, mod- ern automobile rather than the heavy, crushing traction engine.
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If Pnllc mower, rake. spike tooth harrow, drag, * Ullb rollers, small dfok harrow, cultivators of various kinds, weeders, etc.
hPlanf « corn’ cotton, sorghum, alfalfa, pota- 1 IdlUS toes, garden truck , c over, etc.
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THE UNIVERSAL TRACTOR MFG. CO.
2035 South High Street Columbus, Ohio
SEND FOR THE BOOK
DON’T miss this opportunity to get posted on the latest and best ,farm equipment. Remember that the Uni- versal can work faster than a team and work constantly.
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THE UNIVERSAL TRACTOR MFG. CO.
2035 South High St. Columbus, Ohio
f. o. b. Columbus, Ohio
t
Spray Your Garden
Hardie Sprayers will protect your tree shrubs, vegetables, and flowers and help them grow faster. The one shown here is just right for the small country place. We make all sizes and styles of bucket, barrel and power sprayers.
Hardie Sprayers
are used in the largest orchards in America and the big agricultural experiment stations.
Wheel
Outfit
The growers using them are the most successful because they get the High Pressure so necessary for successful work. Send postal for free catalog and free book with full directions for spraying and formula.
THE HARDIE MFG. CO. Hudson, Mich.
One Barrel of ”S c eJ e c i d e”
“Scalecide” has greater invigorating effect on your orchard— kills more scale, eggs and larvae of insects with half the labor to apply. We can back up this statement with facts concerning the Good Results from Using
“SC ALEC IDE
Send for our illustrated booklet — “Proof of The Pudding”. Tells how “Scalecide” will positively destroy San Jose and Cottony Maple Scale, Pear Psylla, Leaf Roller, etc., without injury to the trees. Write today for this FREE book and also our booklet — "Spraying Simplified”. Learn the dollars and cents value of “Scalecide, The Tree Saver.”
Our Service Department can furnish everything you need for the orchard at prices which save you money. Tell us your needs.
B. G. PRATT CO. M’f’g Chemists Dept. I 50 Church Street, New York
Trees, a.s Three Barrels
me Sulfu
The Readers' Service is prepared to advise parents in regard to schools
4
THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E
February, 1 9 1 .5
LET the example of 300,000 housewives, vegetable . growers, fruit growers, farmers, be your guide in getting a bigger quantity of better quality fruit, vegetables, flowers, this year.
Write for the book that will show you why Government Experiment Stations use and recommend Brown’s Auto Sprays — and endorse their ?iew, thorough way of spraying. Brown’s Auto Sprays and patented nozzles work quicker, easier, give greater results with great saving of solution.
Rid your fields, gardens, orchards and shrubbery of blight, disease and insects that cut down quality and quantity of yields, destroy plant life and kill trees. Make every plant, shrub and tree strong, healthy — a big producer.
The Brown’s Auto Spray here pictured is a Brown’s Auto Spray No. 1 — 4 gal. capacity — hand power with Brown’s Patent Auto-Pop Nozzle that throws every kind of spray, from mistlike spray to powerful stream. Easy to carry it over shoulder. Needs least pumping. With one No. 1 a boy can outwork 3 men with ordinary outfits. See it at your dealer’s.
FREE
\\ § I We make 40 styles of sprays — prices from
\\ | I 50 cents to $300.00. Both hand and power
Lju! J outfits for all purposes. Write for complete catalog — and spraying guide
| Non-Clog
tV Atomic Nozzle
— used on large sprayers —is the greatest saver of time, labor and solution ever in- vented. Si mply c anno t clog.
In stantly adjustable from mistlike spray to strong, drenching stream — actually four nozzles in one.
Absolutely self-cleaning. So supe- rior that one dealer alone has sold ‘ \
over 50U0 of this one style of nozzle. A ‘■CP/P-,
Send postal now for valuable Spray- ing Guide — and for prices.
The E. C. Brown Co.
850 Maple St. Rochester, N. Y.
It isn't a SPRAMOTOR unless we made it
Spramotors in every class have demonstrated their superiority over all other spraying outfits.
We make them in many styles and sizes from a few dollars up to $350, every machine guaranteed.
-p) i-^ T”> Send letter stating your spraying needs and
p p H we will mail a copy of our valuable book on
* i “CROP DISEASES” free and without obli-
gating you in the least.
HEARD SPRAMOTOR CO.
330 Erie Street Buffalo, N. Y.
Start Seeds in Hotbeds in the South
FOR a family of six or eight a hotbed measuring 6 x 6 ft. is amply large, and will require two sashes of regulation size 3x6 ft. Now is the time to make it.
Dig a square hole six feet by six feet, and two feet deep and throw the dirt on the north or back side of hole. Of good stout lumber one inch thick and one foot wide cut fourteen pieces six feet in length. Saw one of these pieces in naif with a long sloping cut from the upper left hand corner to the lower right hand corner. Have two posts four feet long and two three feet long and three inches in diameter and sharpened at one end. Make a bottomless box of these planks three planks deep and fit it in the square hole. Put a fourth plank on the back or north side of hotbed, drive the posts close in the corners, the tall ones at the back and the short ones in the front. Nail the two half planks on the sides of the hotbed the wide end at the back. This makes a sloping top toward the south and when the two sashes are put on it catches more sunlight. Bank the dirt close to back and sides and pack down tight.
Fill the hotbed with fresh manure and pack down tight. Put over this four inches of good garden loam finely pulverized; put the sashes on close and leave this for a week. Have a thermometer stuck partly in the soil inside the frame. The mercury will rise for the first few days. Wait until it drops to 70 degrees and then the seeds can be sown, but before doing so, rake over the soil carefully to destroy any weeds that may have come up. Half of the frame can be used for flower seeds and the other half for vegetable seed.
Sow a package each of Spark’s Earliana and the New Stone tomato. The former is very early and the latter is good for main crop and later.
Sow one package of Black Beauty eggplant, also one package each of Chinese Giant sweet pepper and either the long Red Cayenne or the Red Cherry hot pepper. Both are useful for pickles and catsups Sow the seed in rows three inches apart, with just enough soil to cover them, and press down smooth and firm with a small plank.
Flowers that should get an early start by sowing in hotbeds now are the single dahlias, snapdragon, giant heliotrope, chrysanthemum, salvia, delphin- ium, gaillardia, nasturtium, pentstemon, platycodon, pyrethrum, stock, wallflower.
After sowing the seed water with a very fine spray; and always water in the morning. If too damp or close the plants will be tall and weak and very likely “damp off.” Make stocky plants by lifting the sashes a little every day. When the plants have a few leaves prick out and transplant four inches apart in a coldframe which has been filled with a good mellow soil.
Transplant some of the seedlings into 3-inch pots and sink the pots into the soft soil of a coldframe up to the rim of the pot. Transplant into larger pots later.
Sow a few canteloupe, cucumber, and squash seed in 5-inch pots and sink them in the hotbed. The bottom heat will force them and they will be ready to plant out in the open at the same time the seeds are usually planted.
The fall numbers of The Garden Magazine advise making a compost heap to be used on the garden later. It should now be spread liberally on the land. Lime should be spread broadcast now and as soon as possible, if it was not done in the fall, at least ten days before any manure is spread.
Thoroughly plow in the lime and plow again when the manure is spread, this time crosswise.
Strawberries and potatoes. I have found, grow better in slightly sour land, so leave off the lime where they are to be planted. If the ground is not too wet and the weather permits, sow English peas every two weeks and make successive plantings until June.
The latter part of the month beets and radishes can be sown together in rows. The radishes will come off before the beets need the ground.
In the Tidewater Section plant early Irish pota- toes. The Irish Cobbler is a good variety. Cut the sets in chunky pieces with one or two eyes and as a safeguard against scab soak them in a solution of formalin in the proportion of a pint to fifteen gallons of water two hours before planting. Be careful with this as it is poisonous.
The Readers' Service will give information about the latest automobile accessories
February, 1915
T II E G A R 1) E N M A G A Z I N E
.)
Don’t take chances on having your handsome flowers destroyed. They will have an attractive setting and lose none of their beauty by being enclosed with
Bed Guards. Appropriate for use wherever flowers are grown and for bed or lawn of any size or shape. They need no painting— their silver color harmonizes with the flowers. Heavy galvanizing makes them last for years. Other Excelsior Rust Proof products are Trellises , Trellis Arches , Tree Guards .
Write direct for Catalog B.
WRIGHT WIRE COMPANY. Worcester. Mass.
The Morrill A Morley Way The ECLIPSE Spray Pump has been in service *20 years. Durable, efficient, economical. The U.i Department of Agriculture uses it, and you can make it profitable in your orchard, vineyard, or potato held.
Catalog sent free on request.
Morrill & Morley Mfg. ('
Box 14, Benton II arbor, Mich
Eclipse Spray Pum
Many styles shown aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiifTM in new catalog. DHiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiucii Write today jiiiiiiiMliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinifl
Direct From Factory — We Pay Freight _
Brown Lawn Fence and Gate cost less than wood, last 1 longer and are more ornamental. Don’t buy any until you first see our complete line and dollar-saving prices.
THE BROWN FENCE & WIRE CO.
Department 05 CLEVELAND. OHIO .
Two Fine Garden Tools
This fine trowel is almost everlasting. It is 1/16 of an inch thick — made from crucible steel of highest grade. Steel rivet holds maple handle so it can't work loose. Blade, neck and socket all one piece.
Will last a lifetime.
Km
mm
Carden Tools
are all first quality. This Keen Kutter nursery spade has double straps full length of handle. No better at any price. Fine for trans- planting shrubs, bushes, small trees. Ask your dealer to show you. Send for our Garden Tool Booklet No. 1-1646 If not at your dealer’s, write us.
Garden Trowels K05 with Straight Neck Price $0.75 K04 with Bent Neck Price $0.76
SIMMONS HARDWARE CO.
St. Louis, U. S. A.
Your Garden Won’t Grow Without Water
A Few Dollars Spent Now on Skinner System Sprinkling Lines Will Bring Rain Whenever You Want It
A GENTLE rain at any time, by simply turning on a valve, can be had at a small cost.
No more holding a hose — no more disappoint- ments of drought-ruined gardens.
Under the gentle, natural rain from Skinner Sys- tem sprinkling lines, seeds germinate quickly, plants grow steadily — for weather conditions are perfect.
The same results that have made the Skinner System of Irrigation commercially famous, can be brought to your small garden.
Lines can be bought by the foot. They cost little
more than hose and can be installed without tools. Quick-acting couplings make them portable.
A fifty-foot line, covering a space fifty by sixty feet, complete except for stakes to set it on, costs $1 1.75. A one hundred foot line costs $23.00. Odd lengths are twenty-five cents a foot.
If these lines don’t fit, send us a sketch of the garden plan.
A small investment now, cures your dry weather troubles once for all.
Send for Booklet 614. It’s worth reading.
MORE FRUIT ££ ^*15. "d
** San Jose Scale. Aphis, White Fly, etc., by spraying with
GOOD'S SmS FISH OIL
SOAP N?3
1 Kills all tree pests without injury to trees. Fertilizes the soil and aids healthy growth.
Cnrr Our valuable book on Tree and l I\LL Plant Diseases. Write today.
JAMES GOOD, Original Maker, 931 N. Front Street, Philadelphia
Cheap as Wood SdF.a^^.usSl
direct, shipping to users only at manufacturers’ prices.
IVrite /or free catalog’
UP-TO-DATE MFG. CO., 994 10th St., Terre Haute, Ind.
gnn A Made easier, quicker
iDa IVr\I better, cheaper
Three Sherwin-Williams Insecticides and Fungicides are now put up in dry powdered form. They are lighter and more con- venient to handle. They will not freeze, dry out or spoil, and their improved chemical make-up gives a more effective spray.
S-W Dry Powdered Arsenate of Lead
Dry powdered form gives maximum killing power at minimum expense.
S-W Dry Powdered Tuber Tonic
A three-in-one potato spray that kills leaf-eat- ing insects, prevents blight and acts as tonic to the plant.
S-W Dry Powdered Fungi Bordo
An extremely effective scientific fungicide of exact chemical make-up, eliminating all un- certainties of home-made or commercial Bor- deaux Mixtures.
Our Lime Sulphur Solution is par- ticularly effective for San Jose Scale
Send for our Spraying Literature
The Sherwin-Williams Co.
Insecticide and Fungicide Makers
667 Canal Road, Cleveland, O.
(>
T II E G A R D E N M A G A Z I N E
No. 25 Planet Jr Combined Hill and Drill Seeder, Double Wheel Hoe, Cultivator and Plow
A splendid combination for the family garden, onion grower, or large gardener. Is a perfect seeder, and combined double and single wheel- hoe. Unbreakable steel frame. Capacity — 2 acres a day.
Planet Jrs. are the most econom- ical farm and garden tools you can buy.
Designed by a practical farmer and manufacturer with over 40 years’ ex- perience.
They are made the best, last the longest, and give the biggest results. Fully guaranteed.
$ L Allen & Co
Box 1108S Philadelphia Pa
No. 1 6 Planet Jr. Single Wheel Hoe.
Cultivator, Rake and Plow
The highest type of Single Wheel Hoe made. Light but strong, and can be used by man, woman, or boy. Will do all the cultivation in your garden in the easiest, quickest and best way. Indestructible steel frame.
Planet Jr 12-tooth Harrow, Cultivator and Pulverizer
Stonger, steadier in action, and cultivates more thoroughly than any other harrow made. Non- clogging steel wheel. Invaluable to the market- gardener, trucker, tobacco or small fruit grower.
New 72-page Catalog, free
Contains 168 illustrations and describes over 55 tools for every farm and garden need, including Seeders, Wheel Hoes, Horse Hoes, Harrows, Orchard- and Beet-Cultivators. Write postal for it now !
Plant potatoes in rows three feet apart and sixteen inches in the row and four inches deep. Potatoes need potash but if the land is plowed deep and pre- pared thoroughly it is not necessary to add any to the fertilizers as the soil of the Southern Middle States has a fairly good amount of this important fertilizer, which can be made available by early and deep plowings.
Plant potatoes on land that has been in clover the year previous. In preparing the land for every acre incorporate in the soil the following: 300 pounds of
nitrate of soda, 600 pounds of fish scrap, 800 pounds of acid phosphate. For lands that have no potash 300 pounds of muriate of potash should be added.
New asparagus beds can be made the first part of month. Make trenches two feet deep and two feet wide. Fill in six inches with well rotted manure and over this put four inches of good garden soil. Place one-year old asparagus roots crosswise in the trench, and fifteen to eighteen inches apart. Fill in gradually with soil. Have the rows five feet apart. Asparagus roots are planted deep because they have a tendency to work up and each year get nearer the surface of the ground. Don’t cut until the third year. An old asparagus bed should be thoroughly worked now between the rows and a good fertilizer mixed with the soil and the earth mounded up over the rows, thus making it easy to cut the shoots with the asparagus knife as soon as they appear above the ground. The cutting season begins the first of April and should cease the first of June. Throw coarse salt over the beds once in a while. It keeps down the weeds and otherwise helps the asparagus. Some gardeners use kainit with hen manure on asparagus; in that event salt is not necessary. This has proven very beneficial. Examine old trees and shrubs thoroughly and spray for scale now. Do the pruning heretofore neglected.
Grape vines should be pruned and trained. Work in between the rows a good fertilizer containing phosphates and some potash. Be chary of too much nitrogen. The manure spread in the fall or the clover sowed between the rows will furnish all the nitrogen necessary.
Strawberries can be set out if the ground is not too wet, and the old strawberry bed should be worked as soon as possible and a liberal dressing of fertilizer applied between the rows. Use 250 pounds of acid phosphate, 250 pounds of muriate of potash and 100 pounds of nitrate of soda to the acre.
Plant the latter part of the month stone fruits such as peaches, apricots, plums, and cherries; also ornamental trees of a pithy fibre, like the tulip poplar.
Virginia. J. M. Patterson.
Buying and Keeping Tools
IN THE buying of tools and implements, a great many people are governed wholly by price. Some buy whatever they can get the cheapest; others on the basis that the higher priced a thing is, par- ticularly if it is imported, the better it must be. Of the two, perhaps the latter method is the best; but there is a happy medium. The name on a tool, that stands for the reputation that is back of it, is a pretty safe guide. It never pays to buy a cheap thing merely because it is low-priced. The ma- jority of tools used on the small place, if they are of good quality to begin with, will last for a lifetime if they are properly taken care of, and the cost of a tool is measured not so much by what you pay for it as by the length of time it will give you service.
The number of years of service you will get out of an implement, however, does not depend wholly upon its original quality. Equally important is the care you give it. There should, above all, be one central place in which to keep tools. Usually one sees them hanging up on nails, some on the back porch, some in the wood-shed, and others in the garage, barn, henhouse, or greenhouse, if there is one. As far as keeping them is concerned, the small tools and implements should be divided into three groups and a place furnished for all. Small tools and carpenter’s tools — such as the hammer, chisel, square, hatchet — and supplies — such as nails, screws, rivets, etc. — should be kept in a covered box or chest, with a lock and key if it is accessible to children or promiscuous borrowers. Other things are kept most readily by having a fiat wall
February, 1 i» 1 .5
Two Baskets of Apples!
Both grown in the same orchard, on two trees that had the same natural advantages. But sprayed the tree that yielded the apples above, and the apples below came from the tree that wasn’t sprayed. In the “Deming Experiment Orchard,” we take our own medicine. We study spraying right among the trees to find out what is needed in the way of sprayers, nozzles, solutions, etc., etc. We prefer to do the experimenting for our customers rather than let them do the experi- menting for us. This is but ONE of the reasons why practical fruit growers, farmers and gardeners prefer
For over a score of years they have been termed "The World’s Best.” The ease with which every important working part is accessible, makes them great favorites. Their practical con- struction makes their use a pleasure and an economy. Try either of these two leaders:
The Deming “Aerospra”
as shown herewith, is a compressed-air sprayer which is proving of ever-increasing popu- larity with thousands of home gardeners.
Its compact size and practical shape render work with it a pleasure. Easily operated with one hand, while the free hand can turn leaves and branches of plants or shrubs. It throws a fine, but forceful spray, does quick work thoroughly and is built to last for years.
“ Perfect Success ’
Bucket Sprayer
Indispensable for garden, greenhouse or small orchard. A great favorite since it is easily attached to any bucket. Does good work quickly and is built for hard wear.
Read all about it on page 6 of our catalog.
“Deming” Nozzles and “Deco” Hose
Lead under all conditions in all sections of the country. Besides the famous Deming Trio —
Bordeaux, Simplex and Vermorel Nozzles — there are six other styles for different purposes. Everything we sell is fully tested and guaranteed to do thorough work.
Valuable Spraying Guide FREE
To help you spray effectively, we publish a most complete spraying guide. It tells when and how to spray in garden, orchard and field. Catalog describes over twenty styles of Deming Spray Pumps. Ask for your copy and name of nearest Deming Dealer to-day.
THE DEMING CO.
136 Depot Street Salem, Ohio
“Hand and Power Pumps for all Purposes’*
The Readers ’ Service will gladly furnish information about Retail Shops
February, 1915
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
am me
WHEEL HOES and SEED DRILLS
mean a big variety of fine vegetables, with drudgery— stooping, hoeing and hand-weeding — cutout. In one operation the tool shown below will open its own fur- row, sow in continuous rows or drop in hills, cover the seed with loose soil, pack it wilh roller, and mark the next row. A boy or woman can do it. A three minutes’ change and you have a wheel hoe cul- tivator that can't be beaten. High steel pipe frame can work 20 inch plants astride.
, ; combinations at $2.50 to $12.00. Straight planting; clean, close, safe cultivation. Ask your dealer or nearest seedsman to show hem. Write us today for free booklet ‘ Farm, Home and Market Gardening with Modern Tools.”
BATEMAN M’F’G CO
Box 3512
We have issued a tt Very Interesting Catalogue on
AND GARDEN ACCESSORIES
Pergola Album H28” illustrates Pergolas, Garages, Lattice Fences. Veranda Treatments and Garden Accessories; will be sent for 10c. in stamps.
Catalogue H40” containing very useful information about Exter- ior and Interior Columns, will be sent to those who want it for 10c. in stamps.
HARTMANN-SANDERS CO.
Exclusive Manufacturers of Koll’s Patent Lock Joint Stave Column Suitable for Pergolas, Porches, or Interior Use
Main Office and Factory: ELSTON and WEBSTER AVES.
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS Eastern Office: 6 E. 39th St., New York City
STANDARD
Pergolas
AT LAST — A Complete Modern Irrigation Plant at a Price Within the Reach of All
EVERYWHERE
Well Drilling Machines
Have a Business
of your own and clear $15 to $20 or more a day with our well drilling machines. Many men earn big incomes with some one of our 59 styles and sizes. Use any power, Made for drilling earth, rook and for mineral prospecting. Specially adapted to boring wells for irrigation. Standard for 46 years, all over the world. Large catnloguc No. 120 FREE.
THE AMERICAN WELL WORKS
Genera l Office and Works: AURORA, ILL.
Chicago Office: First National Bank Bldg.
Engine and pump mounted on skids with fittings complete, and our New Turbo-Irrigator that will thoroughly irrigate a circle So to ioo ft. in diameter on a movable stand pipe with loo ft. i inch best quality hose, all com- plete f. o. b. Jacksonville, for $225.00. Wherever water supply can be obtained this outfit can be set up ready for operation in ? few minutes’ time, and will thoroughly irrigate 60,000 square ft. from one point, or by adding a small quantity of inexpensive piping can be used to irrigate a much larger area.
Orders accepted now for shipment March 1st. Send us yours now.
J. P. CAMPBELL Jacksonville, Florida
References: Bradstreet' s, Dun's or any bank in Jacksonville
RHODES DOUBLE CUT
PRUNING SHEAR
RHODES MFG. CO
Cuts from both sides of limb and does not bruise the bark.
We pay express charges on all orders.
Write for cir- cular and prices.
527 S. Division Ave., Grand Rapids. Mich.
The Model Support For Tomatoes, Chrysanthemums Dahlias and Carnations
Over 3,000,000 in Use
Write for catalogue on Lawn and Flower Bed Guards, Tree Guards, Trellis and other garden specialties
‘ ‘For sale by all the leading seed houses”
1GOE BROTHERS
67-71 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y.
Neu) Joseph Conrad Stories
A SET of six
Containing five short stories never before published in America and “ The Duel,” formerly published as “ The Point of Honor ”
The publication of this volume for the first time in the American Edition of Conrad’s works is in response to an interest that is rapidly making the name and work of Joseph Conrad known everywhere.
It marks the full turn of the tide in favor of this wonderful Polish-English writer.
The stories included are:
GASPAR RUIZ- — A Romantic Tale THE INFORMER— An Ironic Tale THE BRUTE— An Indignant Tale
AN ANARCHIST — A Desperate Tale THE DUEL— A Military Tale IL CONDE — A Pathetic Tale
The
Five of these are practically unknown to American readers. Of “ The Duel” (formerly Point of Honor ”), Mr. Curie, in his critical work on Joseph Conrad, writes:
“ It is a work of wide imaginative impulse — a wonderful reconstruction of the Napoleonic atmosphere. As a sustained effort in Conrad’s sardonic later style it is unmatched.”
Now Ready in the “ Deep Sea” Limp Leather Edition of Conrad. Net, $1.50 ; in cloth, net, $1.35
Published by DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY Garden City, N. Y.
The Readers’ Service gives information about insurance
8
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
£ E B R CJ A R Y , 1915
v
\
S^^vBlRb FOUNTAIN
Ornamental Fountains For Country Places
GARDEN ORNAMENTS
ONSULT our catalogues for everything in ornamental iron and bronze, including Display and Drinking- Fountains, Entrance Gates, Lamp-Posts, Railings, Vases, Statuary, Weather-Vanes and Stable Fittings, Sundials, Bird Fountains.
Special Designs submitted on request Address Ornamental Dept.
K
Wl-
l"*-
C&te J. L.MOTT IRON WORKS
Fifth Avenue and t(\ Street NcwYorft Citv
AUOWAY PoTfERY
IS THE SETTING EXQUISITE THAT ENHANCES THE BEAUTY OF FLOWERS
Send for our illustrated' — 'catalogue of Flower Pots. Boxes ,Va s e s . Be nche s . Sundials. GazingGlobes, Bird Fonts and other Artistic Pieces for Garden and Interior Decoration.
poway Terra CoTta Co.
3214 WALNUT ST. PHILADELPHIA. PA.
SPRAT.
f Rigs of I All Sizes For All Uses
Junior Leader Orchard Sprayer with 2 H. P. engine, 3-plunger pump.
High pressure. Automatic agitation of liquid, suction strainer is brush cleaned. We aiso make Bucket, Barrel. Mounted Potato Spray- ers, etc.
A Sprayer Every Need
Free catalog. Spraying formulas Junior Leader Sprayer and spraying directions. Address
Field Force Pump Co., Dept. H, Elmira, N. Y.
Plan Garden Decorations Now
This is the time to plan the decorations for your garden. Select some attractive arbors, summer houses or pergolas and include them in your garden plan.
Our free portfolio of garden plates will help you. It shows 160 de- signs and plans for Lattices, Trellises, Decorative Fences, Garden Furniture, Pergolas, Summer Houses and all other Garden Decorations. Our designers are ready to prepare special designs and assist you in the planning of your garden. Their services are free of charge. Send for the portfolio today.
THE MATHEWS MANUFACTURING CO.
9th Floor Williamson Building Cleveland, Ohio
Perpetual Carnations
A new, beautifully illustrated, yet inexpensive book by an expert grower, giving full and practical instructions for cultivating Perpet- ual Carnations. Cloth-bound, 75 cents net; by mail 8 / cents.
FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY, Dept.311, 354-60 Fourth Ave., NewYork
SUNDIALS
Real Bronze Colonial Designs iFrom $5.00 Up
Also full line of Bird Fountains and other garden requisites.
Manufactured by
The M D. JONES CO.
71 Portland St. Boston, Mass.
Send for illustrated Price-List.
-MEAHTlfiiF-CYCLQNE ORNAMENTAL FENCE
THE man who takes pride in the appearance of his home will find lasting satisfaction in surrounding it with Cyclone- Waukegan Sanitary Fence.
Substantial improvement in sanitary conditions follows wherever Cyclone-W aukegan Fence is put up, because it tends to turn mud holesinto flowerbeds and discourages accumulations of rubbish.
It affords an unobstructed view of the premises, a clear sweep jjgHf i^jl for sunshine and fresh air at the fence line — no moisture, . r
no decay. Reduces the fire risk. rcr
We build Cyclone- Waukegan Fence in various designs to suit yout taste,, with gates to match. It costs little, and
constitutesa permanent repair-proof improvement, being builtof heavy galvanized wire, firmly knotted.
eering department will solve your fence problem. No consultation service and estimates. e us for F ree Illustrated Catalog, showing’different designs.
IE FENCE CO., Dept. 104, Waukegan, I1L
against which they can be hung up on nails such are short “D-handled” digging tools, attachments for the wheelhoe, weeders, scythe, pruning shears, and most of the small garden tools.
Some rainy day get a few bits of 2 x i-in wood or “furring pieces” and nail these to the wall above the tool box, horizontally; putting them 12 to 18 inches apart. Then take some large wire nails or 4-inch spikes and make a place to hang each pair of wheelhoe or cultivator attachments and the various other things. These supports will hold them just about far enough from the wall so that they will stay hung up much more securely; under each attachment, mark its name with a heavy black pencil; or you can paste a picture of it cut out from an implement catalogue. If you do this, it will be easy to know exactly what is missing at any time, and just where each thing belongs.
In the third group go the long handled tools, such as hoes, potato hooks, rakes, long handled shovels, and things of that kinci which cannot be hung up. The simplest way of keeping these is to make a rack for them either overhead or against the wall. In the former case, two stout, short pieces of board nailed to rafters a few feet apart, with another piece nailed across at the bottoms of these, and a second similar rack a few feet away from it, may quickly be put up. Any tool wanted may be quickly drawn out without disturbing the others, and they are thus kept together and are at all times out of the way. An iron hoop, severed with a cold chisel and bent to a [ — ] shape may take the place of the wooden rack. If the racks are made against the wall, the lower should be made con- siderably smaller than the upper one. as the handles take, of course, much less room than the heads of the tools.
Of the tools needed on the small place for making ordinary repairs, and any small jobs of construc- tion, the most essential are a good hammer, two saws (a rip and a cutting-off saw, or a set of saws having several blades with one interchangeable handle), a screw driver, a steel-square, a medium width chisel, stock and bits, a combination plyers, and nippers cold chisel, monkey wrench, and an oil can. If you have pipes for running water a Stilson- wrench and a soldering outfit, in addition to these things, will certainly pay for themselves if you live out of town. If you already have most of these things and feel like adding to your outfit little by little, add a hack-saw, key-hole saw, an expansive bit, a wrecking-bar, and a glass cutter. The latter item, of course, if you have a small greenhouse or sashes, will be one of the very first things you will need. One of the most useful tools I have ever bought is a combination vise and drill and small anvil; it is used almost more than any other tool on the place. It cost about three dollars.
Of the small tools used about the lawn and grounds the most indispensable is the trowel. Ten-cent trowels are to be had but they are not worth the money when you can buy a real one for fifty cents. The blade and ferrule should be one solid piece, extending well up the handle. A lawn mower is, of course, also indispensable; be sure to select a good make first and let the width be a secondary consideration. You will find before the season is over that it is harder work to cut with a poor 20-inch machine than it is to cut with a good 14-inch one. Pruning shears and a good sickle must also be on hand; grass shears will also come in conveniently.
For your gardening operations, hardly any of the foUowing can well be done without, even in the small garden: A spade and a shovel, a broad tined
spading fork, and a bow rake, all to be used in the preparation of the soil; for cultivation, a wheelhoe, medium sized ordinary hoe, a light or onion hoe and a scuffiehoe for use late in the season. The Warren, or heart-shaped, hoe is very handy for making drills, covering, working in narrow spaces, digging out old stalks or roots, etc. A sprayer of some kind you certainly should have; I prefer the compressed air to the other type of small hpnd sprayers. For use on a very small scale, a syringe sprayer will answer the purpose, but it will not do as quick nor as good work as the more substantial sort. A bellows or gun for dusting will also be found useful. A good grindstone or tool grinder is necessary to keep your tools in good working shape; this means better and easier work.
Connecticut. F. F. Rockwell.
February, 1915
T H E GARDE N INI A G A Z I N E
9
Poultry, Kennel and Live Stock Directory
Address INFORMATION DEPARTMENT, The Garden Magazine, 11-13 W. 32d Street, New York.
Bob White Quail
Partridges and Pheasants
Capercailzies, Black Game, Wild Turkeys, Quails, Rabbits, Deer, etc., for stocking purposes. Fancy Pheasants, Peafowl. Swans, Cranes, Storks, Ornamental Geese and Ducks, Foxes, Squirrels, Ferrets, etc., and all kinds of birds and animals.
WILLIAM J. MACKENSEN, Naturalist
Dept. 55, Pheasantry and Game Park YARDLEY, PA.
ABSOHB1NE
** TRADEMARK EE6.US MtT. Of F.
Removes Bursal Enlargements, Thickened Swollen Tissues, Curbs, Filled Tendons, Soreness from any Bruise or Strain;
Stops Spavin Lameness. Allays pain. Does not Blister, remove the hair or lay up the horse. $2.00 a bottle at dealers or delivered.
Book 1 K Free
W. F. YOUNG, P. D. F., 152 Temple St., Springfield, Mass.
have a man in our office who has a very interesting job.
He receives letters from all over the world — and replies to every one of them, not with a mere printed form; but with a personal letter carefully thought out.
Some days he travels pretty much all over New York City looking for the right answer to a single letter.
This man conducts our Readers’ Service Department.
If you come across anything in any of our magazines, or anywhere else for that matter, about which you want more information just write him a letter.
He’ll answer it — that’s his job.
Address —
READERS’ SERVICE DEPARTMENT Doubleday, Page & Company
Garden City New York
The Truth About Poultry
Get the Facts by Reading
I he One- Man Poultry Plant
Successful Methods of Men on Farms or Small Acreage. Complete in twelve parts; printed in one volume.
By DR. N. W. SANBORN
REAL work, with real poultry, on a real New England Farm. This is a simple story of what has been done by a man at forty-five years of age, town-bred and city-educated getting out of practice of medicine, buying a small farm in the hill country, and making a success of the ven- ture. Not only is the rearing of chicks and the management of adult fowl completely covered, but the interesting side issues of fruit growing, grain- raising and the production of milk, that cannot be escaped on a real farm. You get rugged facts — rarely found in print. The truth about poultry as found in actual life on a one-man poultry farm.
You Can Bo the Same— Book Tells llow Ol'R SPECIAL OFFER— The One-Man Poultry Plant, in twelve parts (book form), and the American Poultry Advocate one year, for only 5octs., book and Advocate, three years, for only $i.oo if order is sent at once. Our paper is handsomely illustrated, practical, progressive and up-to- date on poultry matters. Established 1892. 44 to 132 pages monthly. 50 cents a year. 3 months' trial 10 cents. Sample copy free. Catalogue of poultry literature tree. Address
AMERICAN PDILTRY ADVOCATE 659 Hodgkins Blk. Syracuse, N. Y.
Brooder
Hodgson
Portable
Houses
No. 3 Poultry House — 2 units Setting Coop
BROODER can be operated out-of-doors in zero weather with little attention or expense. 50 to 100 chicks. No. 3 POULTRY HOUSE-Fitted complete for 60 hens-8x20 feet $110.00. First pen, $60.00 ; additional pens, $50.00 each. Red Cedar, vermin-proof.
SETTING COOP to set a hen in and brood her chicks. $3.00.
All neatly painted and quickly bolted together. Send for illustrated catalogue.
EC nnnrCAM rn fRoom 311, 116 WASHINGTON ST., BOSTON, MASS. > Address all corre- • r« IlvlJUJjUll \CRAFTSMAN BLDG., 6 EAST 39th ST., NEW YORK/ spondence to Boston
Greider’s Fine Catalogue
and calendar of pure bred poultry; 70 vari- eties illustrated and described, many in
natural colors. A perfect guide to poultry raisers — full of facts. Low prices on stock and eggs for hatch- ing. Incubators and brooders. 22 years in business. You need this noted book. Send 10c for it — today.
B. H. GREIDER
Box 25
RHEEMS, PA.
THE
Poultry Book
Compiled by the greatest authorities in the country
New Popular Edition in one volume 1299 pages, 375 illustrations
COMPLETE,
AUTHORITATIVE,
PRACTICAL
It covers every branch of poultry raising from incubating or hatching to marketing
PART ONE describes the varieties best adapted to different conditions and gives instructions for mating, breeding, incubating, treating diseases, marketing, poultry house and brooder building, etc.
PARTS TWO AND THREE contain chapters by specialists describing and illustrating the various breeds and giving the standards by which they are judged.
Former Price Three volumes, $13.50 Now
Illustrated, Net $1 .50
Garden City, DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO. New York
THE
POULTRY BOOK
All the signs of good health and perfect diges- tion follow the feeding of Austin’s Dog Bread. It contains just the food elements that your dog needs to keep him well and happy throughout the year — sweet, lean meat, flour and cereals.
Austin Dog Bread & Animal Food Co.
246 Marginal St Chelsea, Mass.
m
BOSTON TERRIERS
fine markings, good breeding and excel- lent dispositions. I have sold fifty of these fine pets and companions to Couti- tryLi/e readers during the past year and satisfied every one.
Also Bull Terriers and English Bull-
0 ’ Treasonable prices. W rite
Box 330, Garden Magazine
11 W. 32nd St. New York
G. D. TILLEY
Naturalist
“ Everything in the Bird Line from a Canary to an Ostrich”
Birds for the House and Porch Birds for the Ornamental Waterway Birds for the Garden, Pool and Aviary Birds for the Game Preserve and Park
I am the oldest established and largest exclusive dealer in land and water birds in America and have on hand the most extensive stock in the United States.
G. D.TILLEY, Naturalist, Box G., Darien, Conn.
The Readers' Service will give suggestions for the care of live-stock
10
THE G A R D E N MAGAZINE
February, 1915
‘TATjg
READERS' SERVICE
Expert aid and advice on individual problems of practical gardening
Manure on Bulb Bed
Will stable manure, placed on the bulb bed as a winter covering, and worked into the soil after the winter’s weathering, injure the bulbs if it gets in contact with them in the spring?— S. H. B., Minn.
— After the winter’s weathering the manure will be thoroughly “spent” and, therefore, do no harm in the spring.
Ashes From an Incinerator
What is the fertilizing value, if any, of ashes from a garbage furnace? — J. J. N., Pa.
— The value of ashes from a garbage incinerator for fertilizing purposes would depend entirely upon the nature of the material consumed. In any case, it would be extremely low since all the most valuable elements of plant food, such as nitrogen and some of the soluble potash and phosphorus materials, would have been lost in burning. It would be far more desirable and effective to compost the garbage itself, mixing it in a pit or heap with soil, sod and, if possible, stable manure and applying it to the ground when fully rotted for its humus.
Anthracnose on Blackberries
What shall I do with my blackberry bushes which seem to be blighted; the leaves are falling off and the stalks are spotted? I cannot find any worms on the bushes.— B. W. A., La.
— Your description is rather incomplete, but it seems as though your blackberries are afflicted with anthrac- nose. This is a difficult disease to combat and the only recommendations we can give you are: First, that you cut out all affected canes as soon as you discover them; second, that you spray the young growth thoroughly every two or three weeks through- out the season with bordeaux mixture.
Cutting Alfalfa Too Soon
I have a field of alfalfa which will not grow, al- though it has plenty of water. I planted it in February, 1914; got a good stand, but when it was eight inches high I cut it for green feed. Since then it has not grown. — F. W. S., Calif.
— From your description it would seem as though you, yourself, had caused the failure of your alfalfa by cutting it altogether too soon. As with any plant, alfalfa needs a certain amount of leaf surface to change the plant foods taken up by the roots into forms in which they can be assimilated, that is, turned into tissue. By cutting the crop when it was only eight inches high, you removed practically all the active leaf surface and as the plants were young they did not have enough stored up food material to replace it. We very much doubt whether you can do anything to the crop but replant it and if you do this you should leave the field alone for at least six months before cutting it. The best time to mow is when a new growth of shoots can be seen just starting up from the crowns of the plants.
Dividing a Yucca
What is the right time to divide a yucca? — K. K. P.,
111.
— The suckers from the yucca can be divided in the spring or early summer, taken off and put in a sandy soil, well drained. If given this treatment they will strike and do well.
Natural Increase of Narcissus Bulbs
Last fall on taking up Narcissus poeticus bulbs that had been planted several years ago, I found they had multiplied from eight to ten times, and where one bulb had been planted there were then eight or ten, not more than an inch in diameter. These have been replanted. Will they bloom, and if so when? — ■ F. T. W., Idaho.
- — It is quite possible, since you did not take up the
bulbs till fall, that the growth will be considerably weakened for the coming season; for to get the full growth from these bulbs, they should be replanted in August or September. The small bulbs found are the natural increase and will flower when they have at- tained the proper size and vigor, the exact time de- pending on the conditions under which they have been grown. This may take from four to seven years, although an occasional strong bulb will bloom the second year. The bulbs should be taken up as soon as the foliage is ripened, and sorted out by sizes; select the larger ones for flowering size and put the smaller ones in nursery rows, handling them each year in the same way, sorting out the larger ones each year as they develop. Narcissus poeticus will bloom for a good many years under normal conditions and if planted in clumps that are not too dense they can be left alone until they become so crowded that they cease to flower on that account.
Salt Hay
It is a thing that I suppose everyone should know; but we out West here cannot find out what “salt hay” is. It is mentioned in almost every number of The Garden Magazine. — W. W. H., Mo.
- — By Salt hay is generally meant any coarse, grass- like plant that grows on the typical salt marshes of the Atlantic Coast. As a general thing these marshes are firm enough to bear the weight of a mower or at least the weight of a man with a scythe. The hay is generally stacked and allowed to dry out for some weeks; then the stacks are picked up on poles and carried out on to higher land, unless, of course, teams can be driven on to the marshes. While this type of grass is occasionally fed to cattle, who eat it eagerly in the absence of better forage, the market for the material is based more on the demands of dealers in china, crockery, etc., who use it as a packing material. In this latter respect, if not also in regard to its feeding qualities, the salt hay of the East is comparable to any of your western coarser wild pasture grasses.
Another Lawn Weed
I have sent you a specimen of a weed which last summer appeared in my lawn. It grew in dense mats, and killed the grass. How can I eradicate it if it appears next year? — R. S., Canada.
— Polygonum aviculare, or knotweed, is apt to infest such lawns as are frequently trodden, as it can stand such treatment much better than grass or white clover. In such situations, the best plan to follow is to give the grass a rest in order that it may recuperate. The only method of eradication that we have known to be suc- cessful is to pull up the plants in order to prevent their forming seed. It is an annual and readily succumbs to such treatment. As it produces seed throughout a long period of time, it is necessary to go over the lawn several times during the season. As in the case of all lawn weeds, is it strongly advised that the grass be kept in a thrifty condition by top dressing with well rotted man- ures or fertilizers, liming if necessary, reseeding and giving careful attention to mowing, rolling and watering. The thick stand and vigorous growth of grass tends to crowd out most lawn weeds or at least makes them much less noticeable.
Lime on Sour Soils
What kind of lime is used on sour soils; how'much should be used; when should it be applied, etc. — J. S., Ohio.
- — The use of lime on the land is such an important subject that we advise you to learn more about it than we can give you in this space. Write, therefore, to the Director of the State Agricultural Experiment Station at Wooster, Ohio, for copies of Circular No. 123 and Bulletin No. 279 which, if available, will be sent you free of charge. We can say briefly, however, that the best sort of lime for the average soil is raw ground
limestone which should be applied at about the rate of a ton per acre, just after plowing, and then harrowed in thoroughly, preferably in the fall. The next best would be air slaked lime which need not be used as plentifully but which is ordinarily rather more expen- sive as it represents limestone that has been burned and then slaked. Possibly the cheapest form where ground rock cannot be obtained would be quick lime.
Of this you would have to buy only one half as much as of the other two as it contains only about half as much water. Before applying it to the land, however, you should slake it, preferably by putting it in piles about the field, covering it with a few inches of soil and leaving it for a few weeks. In a garden, lime should be added after the soil has been spaded but before it has been raked. From three to seven pounds per ten square feet of freshly slaked quick lime would be a good application.
Winter Planting of Spring Bulbs
This fall I bought some hyacinth tulip and nar- cissus bulbs, but before they were delivered the ground had frozen over. I do want an attractive spring gar- den; and how can I get it now that I have missed the proper time for planting? — A. C. G., Pa.
— You might light a bonfire on the ground where you I wish to plant your bulbs and after the ground has be- come well thawed out plant the bulbs in the usual way. 1 We have seen good results from following out this method. Last year, here at the Country Life Gardens, we planted narcissus bulbs in January when the ground was frozen so hard that we had to pry it open with a crow bar, dropping a little sand into the bottom of the hole for the bulb to rest on. The result of late plant- ing will be late flowers and they will not have the full vigor of flowers planted earlier in the season. You can do nothing else now.
How to Keep Poultry Manure
What is the best method of keeping poultry drop- pings so as to get the full benefit of the different fer- tilizing constituents? — E. K. S., Nebr.
— The essential requirements in keeping poultry manure j are: 1. that it should be kept protected from rain; 2. it should be kept from direct sunlight; 3. that its volatile.constituents should not be allowed to evaporate. Probably the most convenient way to satisfy such conditions is to mix the droppings as they are gathered with enough dry loam, leafmold or other absorbent material to cover them. They may then be stored either in boxes, barrels, or sacks in some dry shed or out of the way corner. Either when they are used or previous to this mixing the material should be reduced to a uniform size by having the lumps pounded down. j Of course, during the summer it is often possible to ! use a great deal of the manure directly on the garden as fast as it is obtained. In this case break up the lumps and do not allow the material to come in actual contact with the plants or roots.
Plants Under a Fountain
Can you suggest any varieties of plants, to be grown in pots, which would be likely to succeed during the growing season, under a fountain which has a fairly heavy spray falling all the time ? — A. B., New Jersey.
— You might try some of the following. You will have to plunge the pots and treat the plants as if they j were in the open ground. Plants less than one foot high: water arum; moneywort; water mint; American pennyroyal; buckbean; forget-me-not; orange milk- I wort; mandrake. Plants one to two feet high: small flag; marsh marigold; golden seal; ground lily. Plants two to three feet high: baneberry; flowering rush; . turtle head; bugbane; day lily; irises; loosestrife; arrow ' arum; arrowhead; swamp milkweed; horsetail; woolly , rush; pampas grass; gunnera; cardinal flower; eulalia; pickerel weed. Plants five feet high or more: giant reed; papyrus; swamp rose mallow; purple loosestrife; cat-tails.
February, 1 !) 1 .5
T H E G A II I) E N M A G A Z I N E
10 -a
To put it at once into Half a Million Farm Homes
THE
COUNTRY
GENTLEMAN
The big $1.50 farm paper, will be mailed to you 3 months —
13 Weeks— 25 Cents
The Country Gentleman treats farming as a business — not only growing stuff, but selling it at a profit — the chief end of any business.
These 13 issues, for 25 cents, would make a book of nearly 1,000,000 words and 800 illustrations, covering more than 500 farm subjects, divided about as follows:
|
General Farming |
. 95 Articles |
|
|
Livestock |
. 75 |
CC |
|
Marketing, Management and Finance . |
. 60 |
Li |
|
Buildings, Equipment and Labor |
. 45 |
LL |
|
Poultry |
. 55 |
(( |
|
Vegetables, Flowers |
. 60 |
L L |
|
Dairying ... |
. 25 |
Li |
|
Orchards and Trees ....... |
. 45 |
• '* |
|
Rural Social Life ........ |
. 25 |
Cw |
|
Home Making |
. 55 |
U |
Free Personal Service
Any farm question that puzzles a reader of THE COUNTRY GENTLE MAN will be answered personally and promptly by mail. More than 100 practical experts are at our call to render this free personal
3 MONTHS (13 ISSUES)
10-6
T H E GARDEN MAGAZINE
February, 1915
|
1-TF 4 — |
E • TALK- OI ■- " ■ :Id |
:-THE-OFFI< — .. ■ —^7==^ |
EE- — |
THE GARDEN AND FARM ALMANAC FOR 1915
THIS is the time to use this book, which each year has grown in size, in circula- tion and, wTe hope, in usefulness. We take this from the preface:
With the ever rapid growth of a widespread in- terest in all that pertains to the country, the field of the Garden and Farm Almanac is constantly broadening. At the same time many agricultural matters are treated in such detail in books and periodicals that it seems best to devote this publication to the task of supplying infor- mation (i) that is wanted often and that must be kept handy, and (2) that is not generally available elsewhere, or, if so, only in widely scat- tered volumes.
There is also being maintained and ever made more efficient The Readers’ Service, through which the experts on the staffs of Country Life in America, The World’s Work, and The Garden Magazine will give personal attention to prob- lems on farm, home, and business matters; on animals, crops, education, finance, insurance, fashions, the kitchen, vacations, farm lands, and practically every possible subject except those demanding medical and legal advice.
Simply write a letter, as legibly and briefly as possible, addressing it as below, stating your question and enclosing one of the service coupons.
We appreciate the enclosure of a stamp for reply, but this js not a condition. In any case your letter will receive immediate attention and a personal answer will be sent you as quickly as possible, from
The Garden and Farm Service Doubleday, Page & Co.
Garden City, N. Y.
THE READERS’ SERVICE
The Readers’ Service which is referred to in the paragraph above was begun by Double- day, Page & Company many years ago, and its value and usefulness increase with the years by reason of its stores of information and ex- perience. In the Financial Department alone advice concerning the investment of tens of millions of dollars has been given, with the purpose of inducing readers to invest in con- servative securities and to expose fraud and speculative investments. In the same way all sorts of information in a greatly varied field have been provided for our readers all over the world.
The letters sent to us are absolutely con- fidential.
THE AMERICAN BOOKS
The first volumes in the series of American books, we expect to publish on the 15th of March. They are as follows:
The American Indian
By Charles A. Eastman (Ohivesa), author of “Old Indian Days,” “Indian Boyhood,” etc.
Socialism in America
By John Macy, late literary editor of the Bos- ton Herald, author of “The Spirit of American Literature.”
The American College
By FIsaac Sharpless, President of Haverford College.
Municipal Freedom
By Oswald Ryan, of the Indiana Bar.
The American Navy
By Rear Admiral French E. Chadwick, U. S. N.
We will state again the plan of this set of books, for the benefit of our readers who did not see the first announcement. The unique feature of the series will be the discussion by American authorities of distinctively American movements and problems connected with the future prosperity of the United States. The series was projected more than a year ago, long before the Great War but it derives ad- ditional importance from the new position which that great struggle has given America on the face of the globe. The United States, standing aloof from the suicidal bloodshed of the Old World, has necessarily become the peaceful arbiter of the earth’s destinies and the flywheel to keep the industry of the world revolving. A new responsibility toward the world’s welfare has therefore devolved upon the United States.
An inquiry into the meaning and tendency of American civilization to-day is thus not only a matter of high interest but of patriotic duty. The publishers wish “The American Books” to be a series of brief authoritative manuals which will attempt to lay bare some of the problems that confront us to-day; written in popular terms that will inspire rather than dis- courage the casual reader. The series should
prove not only of great interest to all American citizens who wish to aid in solving their coun- try’s pressing problems, but to every foreigner visiting this country who seeks an interpreta- tion of the American point of view.
We wish “The American Books” to be writ- ten by the best men, and to this end seek the widest publicity for the plan. We shall be glad to receive suggestions as to appro- priate titles for inclusion in the series, and will welcome authoritative MSS. submitted from any quarter. In science, literature, business, politics, in the arts of war and the arts of peace, we seek writers who have stood for fearless achievement or equally fearless failure who will build up A Library of Good- Citizenship.
FIRST BOOKS OF 1915 A Set of Six
A new book of stories by Joseph Conrad.
God’s Country — and the Woman
A novel, by James Oliver Curwood, author of “Kazan.”
The Building of It
A book of inexpensive houses, by Walter J, Keith.
A Sunday School Tour of the Orient By Frank L. Brown.
Practical Talks on Farm Engineering
By Professor R. P. Clarkson.
Dr. Syn
A novel, by Russell Thorndyke.
Martha of the Mennonite Country
By Helen R. Martin, author of “Tillie, a Mennonite Maid.”
The New Business
A book for every business marl, stating the fund- amentals of advertising, selling, and marketing. By Harry Tipper.
Advertising — Selling the Consumer By John Lee M.ahin.
Victory
A novel, by Joseph Conrad Ruggles of Red Gap
A story of the rise of the ultra English valet Ruggles — a delicious satire on the social life of the West. By Harry Leon Wilson, author of “Bunker Bean,” “The Spenders,” etc.
February, 1 !) 1 5
T II E GARDEN M A G AZIN E
10-c
Frances Duncan’s Gardencraft
Not the photograph of a Country Place but of Miss Duncan’s miniature collaps- ible Country House and Plant-as-you- please garden. A very practical help in Garden-Planning. A fascinating pastime for Garden lovers from eight to eighty. If you cannot visualize your garden-to-be get Frances Duncan’s Gardencraft and make it and see it in miniature. Suburban Size $3.50. Plants for old fashioned gar- den are contained in this set, annuals, perennials, shrubs, box-edging, sundial, rose-arch. Any type of garden access- ories, pergola, pool, tennis court, summer house, etc., may be had in miniature at the Gardencraft work-shop.
Send 4c for catalogue of Gardencraft and Country Life Toys .
Gardencraft Work-Shop
1 Milligan Place, (6th Ave. Bet. 10th and Uth St.) New York
HUNTINGTON
in quality, rock bottom in price. We offer the world’s finest productions in flower seeds, annual and perennial flowering plants, bulbs, shrubs, roses, etc., both staple and novelties.
We are large growers of fine florist’s strains of aster seed, petunia seed, gladoli, and perennial seeds and plants.
Hundreds of professional growers have been using our stocks for years.
If we can please your florist we should please you.
Write for our price list
Ralph E. Huntington
Wholesale Grower of Florists’ Specialties
Painesville, Ohio
—WATER LILIES—
IN YOUR OWN GARDEN
These superb plants can be grown in the smallest garden; you can plant them in a tub or half barrel, and they will give a wealth of beautiful blooms. Hardy varieties can be planted from May to August; tender sorts about the first of June.
“THE WATER LILY” a brochure illustrating many rare sorts, with full description of the familiar varieties, will be sent to anyone who writes for it. Full directions are given for garden culture s well as for pond planting. Write to- day for the booklet.
William Tricker
Water Lily
Specialist
Box E Arlington,
N. J.
How to Give Your Garden a Running Start
Single Row Frame — 13 x 342 in.
4 for £5.
Junior Frames.
Sash 34 inches wide, by 38% inches long.
. $8 £ll
Junior Melon Frames
1 9 2* x 20 2 in.
5 for £4.40 IO for #8.50
TI
1
^HE latter part of last winter, you will remember, was just the kind that made you think that “spring is going to be early this year.” But it wasn’t. It lagged along until some of us had to plant our gardens all over again, and others said : “What’s the use, anyway, of trying to have an early garden any more in this confounded climate ? ”
Along in February we reminded you that Cold Frames or Hot Beds were the only sure insurance against a late garden. We even went so far as to say pretty strongly, that you ought to buy some of our Frames — even if only ten of the Single Plant ones for #6.25, and boost your garden along two to six weeks.
This year you are going to buy frames — you made up your mind to that, eight months ago.
This being so, as it certainly is so, then the thing for you to do ; is send at once for our Two P’s Booklet, which tells you about the Pleasure and Profit of Cold Frames and Hot Beds.
We have seven different sizes and kinds of these frames, or garden boosters.
Send your order now (when we can ship at once) and have them ready for the first signs of Spring.
Every one of them is illustrated, described and priced in our Two P’s Booklet. There are several pages of Helpful Hints, and a Planting Time Table, both of which you want, handy, under one cover. Send for this Two P’s Booklet.
fofd,^Bqrnham|o.
Sales Offices
NEW YORK 42nd St. Building
BOSTON Tremont Building
PHILADELPHIA Franklin Bank Bldg.
CHICAGO Rookery Building
CLEVELAND Swetland Building
ROCHESTER Granite Building
TORONTO Royal Bank Building
Plant Frames 1 1 2 x 13 in. 10 for $6.25
Factories
Irvington, N. Y. Des Plaines, III.
A four sash standard frame, 12 ft.x 6. Price £23.90
Roses, Flowering Shrubs and Fruit Trees
which will bud, bloom and fruit True to Name, sent direct from our nurseries to your garden at wholesale prices. This Spring we offer the finest selection of hardy,
_ _ field grown Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid Tea or Everblooming Roses. Our list includes the choicest varieties: Maman Cochet (white), Maman Cochet lUr (pink), William R. Smith. American Beauty and ‘ Killarney. The stock is all two year old, No. 1 strong bushes. Our book tells you how to plant S and care for them.
Our flowering Shrubs include the finest specimens of Bush Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora and Snowball or Ever- blooming Hydrangea, Spirea Van Houttei (white), Spirea Anthony Waterer (dwarf pink).
Also the finest fruit trees that can be grown: Apple, Peach, Pear, Plum and Cherry. All the best tested varieties. Kelly Brothers' quality and purity of vari- eties means much to the planter. You get the benefit of thirty-five years of prac- tical experience. We stand back of every shipment.
Send today for our 1015 Spring Catalog. It is free. Read our broad guarantee.
Kelly Bros.’ Wholesale Nurseries, 244 Main St.,Dan6ville, N. Y.
You never regret planting Kelly Bros.' stock
The Readers’ Service gives information about real estate
TO -d
T H E GA II 1) E N M A G A Z I N E
Gladioli Bulbs
50 for $1
Delivered
( With Culture Instructions )
Our “Matchless Mixture” of Extra Large, Sure to bloom Bulbs — contains all the latest sorts and colors such as Amer- ica, Princeps, Baron J. Hulot, Mrs. Francis King, the Red, Yellow, Striped, White and Pink shades.
Our new splendid Catalogue
sent with every order.
Weeber and Don
Seed Merchants and Growers
1 14 B Chambers Street New York
Evergreen Trees
There is nothing more beautiful or decorative 'about the country home than the Evergreen. It is attractive both summer and winter, and is always admired. We make a specialty of strong, healthy nursery stock, and can furnish all varieties of
Trees , Plants and Shrubs
Visit our nurseries, where we have at all times a most interesting display, or send for booklet on Hardy Trees and Shrubs, Greenhouse Plants and Orchids.
JULIUS ROEHRS CO.
February. 19 15
l:T-
w
• «
One of the 18 ground plans in our booklet on “Hardy Gardens Easily Made”
You Can Afford a Hardy Garden This Year
Of course you will have a garden again this year and why not have a permanent one that will give the maximum amount of enjoy- ment with the minimum amount of labor and cost. Read what a customer writes us:
“In these times of high cost of living when a man wishes to economize all along the line, your catalogue is indeed most satisfying. I have received probably every catalogue issued this spring by the large firms in the East and West and the prices presented by your house run from 33% to 300% less on most every item. As I have purchased plants of you, I know that the stocks are equal in every instance to those sent out by the others, so it seems that the payment of high prices for the usual flower garden this spring is a matter of choice and not of necessity.
An Easily Made Perennial Garden
is yours almost for the asking. Perennials add a feeling of permanency to your home surroundings. They change their plumage but not their face and keep reflecting the seasons all the year around.
In our attractive booklet — “Hardy Gardens Easily Made for the Busy Man,” we show simply prepared plans adaptable to most situations with the lowest estimates of cost. A little money goes a long way and the results are lasting.
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FEBRUARY 19 15.
PAGE
Start Seeds in Hotbeds in the South - J . M. Patterson 4 Buying and Keeping Tools - - - - F. F. Rockwell 6
The Readers’ Service ----------- 10
Ten Years - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- n
The Landscaping of Peridot - - - - Fletcher Steele 12
Plans by the author
A Three-Tier Herbaceous Border - B.Y . Morrison 15
Photographs by N. R. Graves; plans by the author
Planting a Border for the Indian Summer
Plan by the author Robert S. Stur levant 17
Planning Features for Garden Special Effects
Plans by the author Stephen F. Hamblin 19
I. A Formal Garden for Fragrance IIL Entrance Planting II. A Small Rose Garden IV. A Garden of Dwarf Shrubs
Evergreens as a Screen on a Hillside W. H. Richie 23
Plan by the author
Planning a Fruit Garden to Fit - - J. R. Mattern 26
Plans by author; photographs by H. Troth and A. G. Eldredge
The Month’s Reminder - -- -- - 27
Photographs by H. N. Porch and Charles Jones
Growing Exhibition Quality Sweet Peas William Gray 28
Photographs by J. H. Pepper, Charles Jones and G. W. Kerr
Planting Tables for the Vegetable G.arden
A. E. Wilkinson 30
Seed Sowing Table for the Flower Garden
F . F. Rockwell 31
Hardy Perennials for Landscape Use William H. Richie 32
PAGE
Lice on Asters -Mrs. T. C. Stephens 34
The “New” Garden Magazine - - - P. T. Barnes 34
Lice on Lettuce -------- Harold Clarke 34
Rhubarb in Winter ------ Henry S. Conard 34
Photograph by the author
What Ailed the Asters ? - - - - W alter Greenleaf 34
Select Your Potato Seed ----- E. L. D. S. 34
Gardening on the Seashore ----- W. G. W. 34
A New Mulching Material ------- C. H. 34
How Not to Plant Dahlias and Gladiolus F. R. Perkins 34 A Hill of Roses --------- C. W. Post 35
Photograph by the author
How to Make a Radish Bed - - - Edgar IE Trick 35
Apples for Pennsylvania ------ Harold Clarke 35
A Decade’s Development - - -- -- -- --36
An Alaskan Flower Garden - - - W . C. Blanchard 38
Photographs by the author
A New Idea in Tree Labels - - - - -\Fred Haxton 40
Photograph by the author
“Landscape Extension” in the Middle West W. Miller 44 Suggestions for the Home Table Effie M. Robinson 46 The Rose Society’s Trial Garden ------- 48
Tuberous Begonias from Seed - - W. C. McCollom 48
Photograph by Nathan R. Graves
English Rockeries ------ Eleanor L. Wolcott 50
The Opalescent Apple ------ Waiter A. Dyer 52
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THE BEST EVERGREEN VINE
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Secondly, it is very accommodating as to soils, climate, exposures; is easy to grow; and will trail over the ground or climb to the noble height of thirty feet.
Thirdly, it has an immense advantage over ivy, in being much hardier, growing twenty feet high in New England where ivy can be grown only as a ground-cover.
Fourthly, its superb red fruits, which closely resemble those of our common wild bittersweet, seem divinely appointed to re- deem our American winters from their bleak, ugly and cheerless moods.
And fifthly, it promises to develop a strong American character, becoming as universal and as dear to the American heart as ivy is in Europe.
If I had a million dollars to spare I should like to plant an evergreen bittersweet against every stone, brick, and concrete wall in America. The effect would be electrical, for it would add 100 per cent, to the beauty of America. And it would only be anticipating by 100 years what will surely happen, for it is hardly possible that the world holds any plant with greater power to transform a house into a home. As in England every home and every church is enriched, dignified, and ennobled by ivy, so every American home wall come to be connected so closely with the evergreen bittersweet that it will be impossible to think of one without the other.
— Extract from article by Wilhelm Miller in The Garden Magazine , November igi2.
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If a problem grows in your garden write to the Readers 1 Service for assistance
Volume XXI
Number 1
■v TyV\
THE Garden Magazine is the logical working out of the growing interest in the garden . . . as a delight and pursuit
for the busy people in the work who find a new fascination in the things of the soil.” In these words, the publishers announced the birth of The Garden Magazine just ten years ago. Steadily and regularly since that time, it has endeavored to carry on its self-imposed mission of teaching the amateur gardener of America not alone the routine work of growing plants but also to stimulate in the gardening public a keener appreciation of better plants and of their special adaptations to particular purposes, and above all, to preach the spirit of American gardening for Americans, emphasiz- ing the permanency and value of native materials and such exotics as are more particularly adapted to the American climate — all these things rather than the mere copying of Euro- pean materials to reproduce in American gardens the effects and ideals of the gar- dens of the Old World.
As we ourselves see it to- day, the mission has been largely successful. Our many friendsin the horticul- tural trade, nurserymen and seedsmen, unite in an ex- pression of appreciation of the spread of keen horticul- tural knowledge that has been contemporaneous with the life of The Garden Magazine. We have been in a peculiarly favorable situation from which to see and measure the change of attitude in the American public toward gardens and gardening. Ten years ago, the people in general had hardly begun to realize that there were differences of quality among the mater- ials used in the garden.
Then there were “trees,” and “bushes,” and “flow- ers.” To-day, the suburban and country home maker is a keen buyer of plants by name — the demand for real quality is even larger than the supply. The seed trade and nursery trade, in the improved appearance of their catalogues, in making
their appeal, bear witness to the great in- crease of critical knowledge among the lay public. Perhaps the most illuminat- ing illustration is the development of the Garden Clubs. As knowledge and appreciation of the available materials for garden use became more general, there grew up, as a natural result, a demand for better advice on the right ways to use that material in the making of garden pictures. Hence the desire and interest to-day in garden design and planting for defi- nite purposes which has made us signalize this Tenth Anniversary issue as a Special Garden Planning Manual.
A word or two in explanation of the contents: We asked a land- scape architect to present an account of how he worked, which is told in “The Landscaping of Peridot,” a purely fictitious creation. But at the same time some one or more of the problems discussed
therein will assuredly be encountered in the laying out of anyplace. In every case the details may be varied greatly along the same general layout. The special features given else- where, with complete plant- ing plans and specifications, will serve as illustrations and suggestive models which may be adapted, per- haps not entirely, but surely in part, to suit the individ- ual in each particular case.
Planting the surroundings of the home with material that is well selected to suit the purpose in view is not a fad — it is not even a lux- ury; but it is a real and practical necessity which is being more and more appre- ciated day by day by those who live away from the con- fines of crowds and crowd- ings of cosmopolitan city life.
We hope that The Gar- den Magazine has had its good share in molding the present day appreciation of the beauties and pleasures of proper enjoyment of the home garden; and we are confident that the advances of the next decade will be as marked and as signifi- cant as those of the period just closed.
TEN YEARS
A Message to Old Garden Friends
From WILHELM MILLER
First editor of The Garden Magazine, now head of the Division of Landscape Extension, at the University of Illinois.
So our friendship is ten years old! I am glad the editor touched my arm, for I have been fascinated by my new work. Ah, what delightful pictures his message quickens into life — the gardens that I have visited and loved — especially in the original thirteen states! . .
“What influence has The Garden Magazine had in spreading an ap- preciation of home gardening?” I meet this influence now more than ever because I am meeting you, my old-but-unsuspected friends, in new and more personal ways. The results of it are truly wonderful, and they can be summarized and interpreted only in the light of original motives.
The aim of the periodical that interests you and me so much has ever been to increase the quantity of high-grade planning and planting in home grounds, especially in the flower and kitchen gardens. The magazine might have secured greater popularity for a time by playing into the hands of commercial agencies that think more of quantity than of quality, but it has always stood for something better than the “gardenesque style” of planting a lawn. The gardenesque style is wholesome in so far as it appeals to an innocent love of color and a personal interest in garden work, espe- cially on the part of beginners. It is bad only when it emanates from a love of artificiality, show, or speed. Even these age-old foes of good design are merely excessive forms of fundamental virtues, namely the love of order, color, and maturity.
In persistently recommending planning before planting the journal that you and I like has builded on a surer foundation than the quicksands of shifting taste. It has tried to give the highest possible service that such a periodical can render to the American home by showing the benefits of an outdoor life amid surroundings of order, privacy, and beauty.
You and I may live to see the day when the greatest national service of our favorite magazine may be considered its advocacy of an American style of landscape gardening. Certainly every visitor to the Old World must perceive that one of the greatest assets any nation can have is a national style in architecture, landscape gardening, and interior decoration for these three forces unite to build the perfect home. As to my own part in making of the magazine it is evident that the deepest impression left by my writing goes back to the series of articles that became part of a book called “What England Can Teach Us About Gardens” — the message of which is that we should not copy any country or garden literally, but must work out gardens that are adapted to our own country and our own per- sonalities.
(For an account of Professor Miller's new work see page 42).
11
By Fletcher Steele
Landscape Architect, Massachusetts
Section along the line A B shown on the general plan (blueprint on facing page, looking from the southeast boundary)
The Landscaping of Peridot
AN IMAGINARY LAYOUT PROPOSITION WHICH TYPIFYS THE KINDS OF SERVICE THAT THE LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT RENDERS— HOW HE GOES TO
EVERY time I saw Littlefield last Winter, he was growling about the evils of city life; so I was not sur- prised to get the following letter. Dear Russell:
We have bought some land in Chestnut Hill and intend to build at once. You have bored me so often about people waiting till after their house is built before they call in a landscape architect, that I write without delay. Come out with us Monday to look over the ground.
Jared Hoar will be the architect. He will be out of town for a month, but we want you to work up a plan right away.
Sincerely,
Harrison Littlefield.
I found that the lot included about two and a quarter acres of ground on a hillside, falling about twenty-four feet from east to west corners — a rectangle with the north corner cut out.
An old lane with bordering stone wall and tall trees crossed the place at right angles with the street. Two large elms stood near the northeast boundary. East- ward there was a broad view over a pleasant valley, broken by an ugly mansard roof house in the foreground. In all other direc- tions the place was hemmed in by unsightly stables and houses.
“Isn’t it splendid?” exclaimed Meriam, Littlefield’s handsome wife, looking out over the valley, with the enthusiasm of those who have just bought land. “ Did Harrison tell you how we found it? We were out walking and I lost my ring there by the wall. We sat down to look for it and soon decided to stay here always. So we’re going to call it, ‘Peridot’ for the old green stone it was so lucky to lose.”
I thought that original and pretty. Then getting down to business I asked,
“Is it to be a summer place?”
“Not on your life,” answered Harri- son who speaks American fluently, “Winter too. You won’t find me caged up in town again.”
Meriam had figured out their require- ments, and I soon had the following list: Sunny house, suitable for entertain- ing, with hall, “which you look through to the garden”; large drawing-room; dining-room and outdoor dining terrace; breakfast room; bookroom, “where I can put Harrison when he gets too abominable”; place for the small child- ren to play; tennis court; flower garden “with a pergola, — I think they’re sweet”; kitchen and cut flower garden; liberal service quarters, including a garage.
There was a split in opinion about
locating the garage. Meriam wanted it put in some distant corner as a “horrid, noisy, dirty place,” but Harrison would not hear of that.
“It’s got to be near the house where I can get at it, if it goes in the middle of your flower beds. If you think I’m going to stumble all over this hill on cold, rainy nights after I put the car up, you’ve got another think coming.”
The battle waxed until I insisted that it was up to the landscape architect to satisfy them both, somehow.
“Haveyou fixeduponany definite amount to spend?” I asked. Littlefield said no. He wanted everything done “right,” but without extravagance. Meriam thought it curious that I then wanted to know how many outdoor men they expected to keep. But it was easy to show how unwise it would be to build gardens, etc., elaborate enough to need four men’s time, if they only wanted to keep one. Harrison finally decided on two, saying that he would rather pay out more
Ttenn Screen m ShST Corner.
Planting PIan afte:r. Sknrcw.
on construction to begin with if it would reduce the permanent maintenance cost.
While talking we wandered about and I took frequent notes of the topography, ex- posures, vegetation and outlook.
“Just what do you do next in making the design?” Meriam has lively curiosity.
“The next thing is to get an accurate survey. I shall have an engineer out here to make a map of the boundaries, topogra- phy and exact location of the trees, the good and bad outlooks and the soil conditions. Then I can start in to make an intelligent plan for development.”
“ How will you and Jared work together? ” “Well, it’s a pity that he won’t be back this month. He ought to have been with us on the grounds to-day. It is always better to cooperate with the architect from the first, but I understand his work as we’ve done several things together. Since you want my preliminary plan for the grounds before he can get back, I shall rough out a floor plan for the house, on which the layout of the grounds usually depends. Later, he and I will go over the whole problem to work out the details.”
A fortnight later I spent an evening with the Littlefields going over the proposed plans. The big library table was cleared of magazines and the blueprint spread out with a book on each corner to hold it flat, while we all leaned over it to examine and explain.
“My, but it looks fancy,” was Meriam’s first observation. She looked rather pleased, but Harrison was non-com- mittal. “Tell us what it’s all about,” she said. “I’m sure I never could guess. Where is the street?”
I showed her the street crossing the lower part of the plan; the stone wall, represented by a line of irregular shapes at right angles to the street, across the middle of the lot; the tennis court at the top of the hill, and the lowest place at the east corner (the upper left hand corner of the plan, when the page is turned so as to get the reading natur- ally), near where the mansard roof house broke into the valley view. Meantime Littlefield had been study- ing the layout and broke forth:
“I’ll be jiggered, Russell. The way you’ve got it here, the house doesn’t face the street at all. It’s end on to the street, and kitchen end at that. What d’you think of that? ” disgustedly, “Kitchen on the street where every- body can see it instead of around be- hind somewhere out of sight.”
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I T /ame azalea \TdJiyjatidra iermina/ij
Detail planting plan for screen of trees to hide an adjoining house. Many such details as this will be necessary for the completed planting plans and are capable of infinite variation according to circumstances
12
February, 1015
T H E GARI) E N IV[ A GAZIN E
13
“Let me see,” and Meriam laboriously figured out the matter. “Why Russell! You have put the garage on the sidewalk! I really don’t understand. You must have
some subtle reason. You artists are always being subtle. Explain yourself.”
As he settled down I half heard Harrison’s “Subtle! Huh! A little horse sense would
be more to the point.” But it appeared better to ignore this.
“There are many reasons for not having the length of the house parallel with the
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General layout of the two- and
a half-acre plot of “Peridot” in which the landscape architect has embodied all the requirements of the owners, as is fully explained in the
accompanying text
14
THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E
February, 1915
street. It would cost more to build on the side hill; half of the house would never get a ray of sun and would face the unattractive noisy highway, having little privacy; it would be impossible to hide the bad features of the rear outlook without cutting off all the valley view as well; with such an ar- rangement a larger part of the grounds would necessarily be devoted to service uses than would be defensible and there would be much waste space — ground that would be used neither to make service easier or life more agreeable.
“Two and a quarter acres is not very large. I set out to get for you the utmost use of every square foot, just as an architect does with a house. You must know many places — even small places — where there is an area behind the barn or between the house and the next lot that is neither garden nor usable lawn nor anything else but waste space. This is as bad in landscape archi- tecture as similar waste space in a house would be bad architecture.
“Indeed the analogy between the two professions goes deeper than that. The functionsof the differentparts of the grounds answer fairly well to the functions of rooms of a house, though not exactly, of course. First, in both cases the wise man wants something between him and the public gaze on all four sides. In the house it is a wall; on an estate it may be a garden wall or some bushes. In both cases it shelters privacy within.”
“Hear, hear!” came from the ribald Harrison.
“At the same time,” I went on scorning the interruption, “this same wise man wants openings through which he can see if anything is worth the while outside. Otherwise, he so arranges his place that its interest within is sufficient and he is not tempted to look away, nor are the children tempted to run off their own place to play. In your case, the only thing worth seeing outside is the valley landscape which is made ugly by the mansard roof house and other neighboring buildings. On the grounds I found one spot, roughly a circle, perhaps seventy-five feet in diameter where the view is first class and from where I could entirely hide all the ugliness by planting tall trees in groups. Between these groups are ‘windows,’ marked ‘views’ on the plan.
“It is a physiological fact that it rests the eye more to look into distance than at something near by. Consequently, I de- cided to put nothing in the foreground of these ‘windows’ to distract the attention, but rather to lead one’s vision over the natural, sloping meadow to the far country. I decided that this reposeful view should be commanded by the verandah, drawing- room, and bookroom, in which places rest will be oftentimes the first consideration. Other than this place, every feature of the grounds is designed to interest by looking into, not out of. Now let us return to the analogy of the house.”
“Heavens, Meriam, can’t you turn him off?”
“Hush, my dear; people pay money to hear him talk this way in lectures.”
“The entrance turn, of the landscape com- partments, may be compared to the hall of a house; the service turn or court to the kitchen entry; the drying yard is kin to the laundry and the kitchen garden to the kitchen. I like to think of the tennis court as the billiard room of the grounds and the flower garden as the drawing-room.
“One other feature deserves mention, mainly because it is as important in land- scape architecture as in architecture, but has received relatively less attention.- This is the need of convenient service access to all the several units of the grounds. Too often the apparatus of maintenance — carts, rollers, lawn mowers and the rest — must be carried through one compartment to an- other, up steps and down, because no direct access is given. When I came to look into the problem it occurred to me that the old lane would make an excellent service ‘corridor’ so to speak. It has long been a charming grass covered path following the picturesque old wall. We can do no better for service purposes, and nothing which will catch more definitely the character of the meadow, than to keep untouched this old relic. That was what I decided to do.
“Once the decision was made, the wall, not the street, became the controlling mo- tive of the design. I next worked out a house plan parallel with it, the drawing- room, bookroom, and verandah giving bn the view as pre-determined. The distance away from the wall to place the house re- quired careful consideration. As shown on the plan it is far enough away so that the trees by the wall will shade all the ground between them and house at the hottest times of summer, but will not keep the purifying rays from pouring in through the windows. On the lower and shady side of the house sufficient room is left for a comfortable entrance turn and wide planting space to hide the buildings next door. Last, the house is placed where it closely follows the topography of the grounds. This will en- sure that it will ‘tie in’ with the landscape — look as if it belonged there and had not been dropped by chance like so many of even our best designed houses.
“By arranging so that, not only the house, but all the other features of the place follow the general slope closely, the construction cost will be reduced to a mini- mum and also, we chain to our own use the genius of the place.”
“Te-he,” chortled Harrison, “Cut out that highbrow stuff and explain why it’s cheaper to follow the slope.”
“Why, you see, moving large quantities of earth is one of the most expensive items of cost, especially where there is a long haul. Here that is reduced to a minimum. The dirt excavated from the cellar will just serve to bring the entrance turn up to the proper level; that which must be sliced off one end of the tennis court will be used on the other end, and so on. Only such grading is done as may be necessary to get reasonably level areas.
“While the topography is closely fol- lowed, yet, paradoxical as it may sound, changes in grade are emphasized by steps and retaining walls where possible. They are picturesque and interesting in them- selves and often serve to delimit areas, a desirable thing to do, better than anything else. Walls are more expensive to build, in the first place, than banks; but they are much cheaper to keep in good condition.
“Such a retaining wall carried six feet above the drive, separates the entrance turn from the house lawn, keeping the latter secluded. But to give the grounds as well as the house a formal entrance, an arched gateway is planned directly opposite the debouche of the drive, which will form an interesting feature from the sidewalk. From the lawn it will be approached by a flight of steps.
“Except for this glimpse, almost nothing of the private apartments will be visible from the street, as a thick screen of trees will hide the entrance turn and front and the other side of the house will be cut off by the service quarters.
“The service court is separated from the highway by a wall which will keep it un- objectionable. The garage opens on to this court, not on the street. The garage is placed as far as possible from all the living apartments of the estate, yet it is connected with the house by a covered passage, and cold rainy nights need have no terrors for you, Harrison. There is an added advan- tage in that the heating apparatus for the house can be placed under the garage, where it can be tended in the easiest and most economical way.
“By this court there is direct connection with the kitchen garden. Only one entrance is needed for kitchen, garage and other service wagons. I am convinced that the least possible area of your grounds is de- voted solely to service purposes in this way. And economy of this sort on a place the size of yours is imperative. The conven- ience of service is extended by the fact that the service lane opens on to this court as well as the path through the kitchen garden leading to the tennis court and the compost yard. The latter is large enough for com- post, manure, screenings and gravel for the tennis court and drives and to collect the rubbish which it is impossible altogether to keep off a place.
“The tennis court is a noisy feature, put as far away from the house as possible, yet directly connected by the terraces and pergola. Both sides of the pergola act as retaining walls — down to the flower garden, of which it will give pleasant, shaded out- looks, and up to the kitchen garden, which will thus be easier concealed, yet convenient.
“The outlook from the dining-room across the sunny out-door dining terrace, up steps between big oil jars, under shady trees and through the sun-mottled pergola to the gleaming tennis overlook house on the far side of the court will be lengthened and enhanced by false perspective and other amusing tricks. This will be the view from the front door, which Meriam wanted.
February, 1915
THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E
15
The dining-room table will not break it be- cause one will look over it to the pergola on the higher level.
“From the drawing room the dining ter- race will be hidden. A big bay window will open upon a broad circle bordered by rho- dodendrons, which will look handsome both winter and summer, a fine secluded place for the small youngsters to play, under the eyes of the house. On the same axis but beyond the old stone wall (which will be jealously preserved through the gardens as elsewhere), will be the flower garden, across which you will look to a low platform at the other end, with a white statue against a dark evergreen background.
“This vista, with its zones of sun and shadow, will be a short variation on the longer dining-room vista motive, to borrow a term from the musicians. The garden is placed near but separated from the house so that it may be well out of sight during the dismal seasons. All the plant- ing immediately around the house will be evergreen with spring and summer bulbs.
“The meadow lawn is directly accessible from house, garden entrance court and service lane, but is an isolated unit of design as it should be.
“We might go much more into detail, but without profit until you decide about
the general scheme. How do you like it?”
“What do you think of it, Meriam?” asked the master of the house.
“ It seems to have everything we want and all mighty convenient. Part of it seems queer and not as we would have done it. But after all we called in a landscape archi- tect because we didn’t know how to plan all these things ourselves. Russell’s points are all sensible, and I think we had better let him go ahead.”
“All right, Russell, go ahead. Every- thing is certainly compact and shipshape. I guess you do know what you are about, after all. Seltzer or plain water? ”
A Three-Tier Herbaceous Border
By B. Y. Morrison,
District of Columbia
THE SKILLFUL USE OF “IN-BETWEENS” BY WHICH A GREAT VARIETY OF PLANTS CAN BE GROWN IN A BORDER OF MINIMUM SIZE, THROUGHOUT THE SEASON
T
The Japanese anemones will do best in a (airly moist sit- uation. and some shade even
HIS article is not for the people who leave their gar- dens to the care of the hired man. Its doc- trine is a dangerous one, one which calls for the constant attention of the owner. And, moreover, the owner must belong to that demented clan, who go out before break- fast to see the new peony buds, and who come in from office by way of the garden to see what the sun has opened during the day.
The trouble was just this. I was to have a new house and a new garden — and, alas, the garden was infinitesimal and my plant appetite was gigantic. A good friend came to the rescue unknowingly by giving me many happy hours in his garden, and slowly the bright idea of the “in-betweens” took hold. Of course, interplanting is nothing new. Nearly all good gardens show ex- amples of interplanting, especially in the herbaceous borders, but I wanted to inter- plant more closely than is generally recom- mended because I simply had to have all the things, and if I had them all in the old way they would have to be just about half a plant apiece.
So scheming began. To avoid the danger of having a messy effect in the garden sev- eral different plants were decided upon to be featured. First of all German iris, then Japanese iris, phlox, Japanese anemones and Michaelmas daisies in succession. These were spotted through the borders with the exception of the Japanese iris and anemones, for which a special bed was re- served. Then came the delightful work of interweaving.
In working this we made a list of the “must haves” that were herbaceous in character and not bulbous. Then another list of these, grouping them so that they combined pleasantly for growth or success- ion or combination of bloom. In doing this we thought of plants first according to their habit of growth. For example, there is a great host of plants like thyme, Veronica repens, Ajuga reptans, the smaller sedums, and such creatures who crawl over the earth rooting at every joint. Obviously they must not be planted next to plants which make rosettes or tufts, like Armeria, Lychnis, and similar plants. Then there are the trailers which root more slowly at the joints, if at all. Examples of this class are Phlox subulata, Cerastium tomentosum, Arabis, Alyssum saxatile, Iberis, Campanula carpatica, and a host more. These, like the first, are prone to swamp their neighbors. The erect plants we group also according to their methods of self propagation. There is the great class of things like phlox, col- umbines, delphiniums, aconites, peonies, fraxinellas which merely increase slowly about the old crown until a “clump” is formed; and there is the other class which sucker out- rageously-— nearly all the com- posites go into this class, some of the garden oenotheras, a few of the coarser campanulas, hemerocallis, and many others.
So the problem was simplified into a mechanical arrangement of creepers, trailers, dumpers, and suckerers, if we may use such ludicrous nicknames. Those which make clumps are ideal as centres to plant around. The creepers which are shallow rooted run them a close second, especially for any underplanting of bulbs. In my The charm garden, suckerers are tabooed save
for Michaelmas daisies, which I must have, and a solitary clump of Boltonia latis- quama. Even my beloved Hemerocallis flava and Thunbergii are outlawed in the shrubbery part of the garden.
But let us get to examples for they are the most fun. Because my garden is so very small, most of the garden stuff is of small scale which will be immediately evi- dent from a glance at the plan of the garden to be, which employs some of the garden interweavings from the other gardens I know.
Have you ever seen fat little clumps of Scilla sibirica and Galanthus Elwesii coming up in front of the dark purple red shoots of an old peony? If you haven’t, try it. The bulbs will ripen fairly well under the peony tops and last very well considering. The same bulbs look well with yellow crocus near clumps of Dictamnus. Here, of course there is no special contrast of growth, but Dictamnus makes great clumps which are impatient of disturbance and little things of bulbous nature can go in to economize space. And not far down the line from this
of the mixed herbaceous border lies in the succession of effects. Tulip and phlox shown here
16
T H E G A R I) E N M A G A Z I N E
February, 1915
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Planting plan for the wet border in which Japanese iris and Japanese anemones furnish the features with various other plants as individuals.
Scale Yi inch equals 1 ft.
have a big clump of Heuchera sanguinea with good bronzy leaves all winter and a great cloud of delicate bloom in the middle of June. Some of the newer hybrids give scattering bloom throughout the year. The double tulip Murillo, with pink and white flowers goes well to precede this; Anthericum liliago, var. major gives white flowers at the same time and Gladiolus America may be planted later for August bloom.
Unlike tulips, of which the pale yellow retroflexa and the glowing crimson scarlet Gesneriana major are my special favorites for borders, narcissus are rather difficult in the border because of the heavy mass of foliage which breaks down soon after flowering. A few clumps must go in, and Viola cuculata is good to go in with them. Just a plant or two will be more than enough because it seeds pestiferously; but it is worth having, even though the flowers are odorless, because it can be cut down re- peatedly and still yield a fresh clump of leaves. There are white and bicolor forms of it as well as the purple type.
Then there must be purple and lavender crocuses in the garden, if you can keep them away from the blue of Scilla sibirica. To my notion, the blue of the squill is so much more perfect than the color of any crocus that ever grew, that I could resign the cro- cuses without a murmur if the garden were too small for both. But if some of the dark purple and lavenders are planted in little clumps near some later blooming perennial with tufted habit such as Armeria or the coarser Lychnis viscaria the effect is rather good.
Another good early combination is the Heavenly Blue variety of the grape hyacinth (Muscari botryoides) planted near the upper edge of a sheet of Cerastium tomentosum. A single plant of Adonis vernalis and a few of plants of Myosotis Victoria (best treated as an annual) would form pleasing incidents here. Or perhaps three or four bulbs of Narcissus Golden Spur or Cam- pernelle rugulosus — or if you prefer smaller scale, a little clump of the tiny Narcissus jonquilla with dark green rush-like leaves and starry, golden, fragrant flowers. Back
of a clump like this, of which the Cerastium alone can be counted on for all summer, put some clump of plants which will start slowly in the spring and have later interest. A clump of Funkia lanceolata would be good, because like all the funkias it is late to start, has admirable foliage and charming lavender flowers in September.
And behind the funkia there could be good clumps of Doronicum plantagineum, var. excelsum or of Corydalis nobile. These are two very different plants which come up with a rush in the spring and pro- duce a fine display of bloom and then more or less disappear. Then back of them would have to be some good tall late plant again, probably a group of phlox with Michaelmas daisies behind, for we are pretty well to the back of the border by now.
Perhaps not a whole group of phlox should go in with the Michaelmas daisies. I saw a border last summer that was backed with a mass of pale lavender asters and among them were just a few stalks of a late bloom- ing cerise pink phlox. The effect was really very charming, especially if one could add a
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This border of perennials gives great variety by reason of inter and under planting. The lower part of this plan should be extended on the right of this portion to form one
entire border
This border is designed to accommodate the greatest number of kinds in the smallest space, yet having due regard to proportion of mass, succession of effects, and continuity of bloom. Use three plants for each colony. Iris and phlox can be planted closely to make a clump at once. The shaded areas show underplantings of bulbs. Scale Yi inch to 1 ft. approximately. B. Y. Morrison, Designer
February, 1015
T H E G A R 1) E N M A G AZIN E
17
mass of some gray leaved thing such as the somewhat tender Centaurea gymnocarpa or Cineraria maritima.
And speaking of gray leaved things — try a little patch of Artemisia frigida with clumps of Sternbergia lutea near the edges. Artemisia has delicate silvery leaves and Sternbergia has leaves like a narcissus and flowers very much like bright yellow cro- cuses on short stems. But the best of it is that the flowers come in October and bring a welcome bit of color to the edge of the border which is mostly given over to the low things that bloom in the spring. And down the line there can be clumps of Crocus speciosus or sativus coming up through creepers like the lavender form of Phlox subulata or Veronica rupestris. These crocuses are good lavender purples, bloom in October, and have not the poor and weak-stemmed habit of their relatives the pale pink colchicums.
But of course the real interest of autumn goes to the Japanese anemones with their great sheaves of airy bloom, and to the
clouds of Michaelmas daisies. Personally, I prefer the white Japanese anemones and the pale pink Queen Charlotte. In my garden they are to be planted among the clumps of Japanese iris because they like the rich food with which I pamper my iris and the daily floodings which the iris gets for a month before and a month after blooming time. Several clumps of Spirea filipendula, the Astilbe Arendsii, var. Ceres, Astilbe Gladstone, and perhaps Grandis and Davidii are all going to find a place in these wet borders. The advantages are two, aside from their finding a congenial home: they will give me bloom in June, just before the iris comes, and the anemones will give me bloom again from September until frost. But almost as important as this, both will give me a pleasant foliage combination with the iris. Well grown Japanese iris are almost too coarse for a small garden, but if we can get a foliage which wall pleasantly relate with the strong verticality of the iris leaves their coarseness will be softened. Therefore, choose compound leaves — those
of the spireas have a considerable element of the horizontal because of the way they are carried, and similarly those of the anemone.
I am to have Campanula carpatica creep- ing around broad tufts of Primula vulgaris and the single Lychnis viscaria close to the colony of Campanula persicifolia. Both make tufts and the succession of bloom will be good; for it will appear casually as one great colony, only the bloom will be very different at two different times of the year. Then too, there must be a clump of white fraxinella with the deep purple Veronica amethystina near by and perhaps a clump of the large doronicum. White lupine and dark blue iris are to combine. Iris pumila is going to push its way through the fat gray mounds of Dianthus plumarius.
Perhaps by autumn I shall have to confess that there have been many summer trans- plantings to give room. But I do not fear. The plants must be had and the only way to have them in a baby garden is to plant three layers deep and manipulate eternally.
Planting a Border for the Indian Summer
By Robert S. Sturtevant, chuseits
LITTLE REALIZED POSSIBILITIES OF FLOWER EFFECTS IN THE LATE FALL AFTER THE EARLY FROSTS HAVE PLAYED HAVOC WITH THE SUMMER FLOWERS
Eranthis £r
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irea
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bronze Orange
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INDIAN SUMMER BORDER
BY R. 5. STURTEVANT
Frittlar
This border is designed for its late season effects with flower color, but also has more or less continuous interest throughout the s
Foliage color is especially considered here
THE very title seems a contra- diction of terms. Yet a study of plant material discloses much that in foliage or fruit, form or color, may be used effectively.
However good the perennials, a suitable background enhances their charm. This
background may be very desirably of ever- greens but at present I shall make use of only the commonest of shrubs as they seem more suggestive of unrealized possibilities and may, therefore, be more adaptable to ordinary conditions. I have chosen for the site of the border a shallow bay in the
shrubbery, about twenty-five feet long, and not much farther from the living side of the house, yet open to the sun for the major part of the day. It forms a part of an important view throughout the year so that any interest of color, possible at any season, will be appreciated.
18
T II E G ARDEN M A G A Z I N E
February, 1 !) 1 3
Background and enframement are the first consideration; Regel’s privet will most satisfactorily fulfil the former condition. This has a much greater distinction of growth than the ordinary hedge privet, a distinction of a more flowing line, more in harmony with the varying growths of the perennials. It remains in good foliage, and the dull, green-purple, autumn color- ing, and black berries form a happy neutral backing. As for the enframement; to the right a group of bridal wreath among which a tall white lilac rises, both, thus late in the year, rather thin of foliage, yet the one, with its thick massed warm colored branches, and the other stark, a study in line, make a pleasing incident; to the left, the depth of shrubbery is deeper; a group of the harsh, gray yucca contrasts with the soft Spiraea Thunbergii and above the now really burning bush (Euonymus europaeus) is a blaze of glory.
A successful border is fundamentally the result of the elimination of many species. Often the limits are set beforehand by some especial desire for certain color effect, a certain seasonal display, or perhaps a certain psychological effect upon the beholder.
The occupants of this Indian summer plantation must fulfil two requirements, first, one of growth that is agreeable well toward winter, and second, one of situation, in full view throughout the season. This necessarily creates a thickly settled plant community, a two-story tenement where bulbs struggle for outlet among their larger perennial neighbors. The English recipe for garden planting “that each six-inch square should have its growth” shall be fulfilled. This brings about an involved planting plan which will show a correlation, culturally and aesthetically, of individuals of varying habits of growth and bloom. It means care in the preparation of the ground, attention to detail in planting, and, in the beginning, wise weeding. As soon, however, as the plants have covered the ground, suppression of unruly members is the chief requirement.
Preparation may be made in late summer or early fall depending upon whether the bulbs or the perennials are first to receive attention, but the latter may also be planted in spring. The ideal is to first plant the bulbs; then the perennials, allow- ing them sufficient time to form good roots before winter sets in. It is, on the other hand, not difficult to dibble in the bulbs through the summer growth of perennials.
One partial exception to the comparative permanency of the border’s inhabitants and the consequent need for extra culti- vation is the case of the chrysanthemum. These require slight winter protection, annual division and enrichment, so no bulbs should be put within eight or nine inches of the space set aside for them. With us very few are dependable and so I use the cheery, little, old-fashioned terra- cottas for the mass of color. They are not so entrancing as individuals but do make a lovely drift and hold up their heads well, a natural advantage over the
larger pompoms. For brightness use also a few other buttons and try a plant or two of the bigger flowered ones; they are worth while, though not so satisfying in a mixed, herbaceous border. Keep them all on the yellow side of the spectrum in color, in delightful tones of yellow and bronze, orange and brown, some clear, some passing from one shade to another.
Chrysanthemums are not the sole late bloomers; Aster tataricus, a tall, coarse grower, does not open its lavender heads until into October; nor does Aconitum Wilsoni, tall also, but with clean cut, glossy foliage, show its characteristic, dark, purple-blue hoods. I would like to add a cer- tain helenium, a seedling ofRivertonBeauty, in color similar to the ordinary autumnale but with more enduring flowers; Crocus sativus, a dull lilac, and C. speciosus in brighter shades varying toward white, may still show color and were just right the first year of planting. Then also a touch of the new hybrid Phlox Arendsii, var. Helene sends forth scattered flowers of lavender, just the tone of the incomparable divari- cata. It is a delightful thing, blooming throughout a long season, and the only one of its group that seems clear in color and does not too greatly resemble a stunted paniculata.
There is a large number of plants with practically evergreen foliage which, earlier, may be a mass of bloom. Of these but few are chosen of varying tones — silvery, cottony, bronze, and green. Before writing of these combinations, we must make note of a few plants that should be used rather scatteringly.
Earliest of them all comes the yellow winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), and but little later the crocus (Largest Yellow), great numbers of them well in the shade of the shrubs and only a detached colony or two intruding into the border proper. The yellow of the crocus will be sparkling above the silver of Artemisia frigida, the metallic Dianthus plumarius or the bronzed Heuchera. Back in more root bound portions of the shrubbery put myrtle; it makes a glistening, evergreen carpet and grows almost too rampantly under adverse conditions; in winter it rises black through the thin snow, in May and sometimes later it is studded with bloom, blue, white, or an objectionable red-violet.
Two more plants, though possessed of a troublesome number of seedlings, are, for quite other reasons, worthy of use. Both sweet rocket and celandine are large, early growers which give height and mass when the main elements of effect are low or slender. The former (Hesperis matronalis) comes in white, shading to a nursery cata- logue “pink” — a real magenta — of which the first only is of value for its loose, phlox- like clusters; the latter (Stylophorum), forms a delightfully vivid bush of glaucous, divided foliage, starred with poppy-like flowers of small account. Such tolerants should be kept under the edge of the shrub shadows, for they will endure these con- ditions.
Of similar worth will be the yellow May flowering composite Doronicum caucasicum, with its neat, basal leaves. Its gold will create a striking contrast with the paper- white poet’s narcissus, and the intense red with blue-black central spot of the big Tulipa Gesneriana spathulata major. Now also the queer guinea-hen flowers gain in oddity peering through the sharp yucca spikes. Tall yellow tulips (retroflexa) rise above a bank of snowy candytuft while at its edge a tuft of the mossy pink phlox forms with it a bouquet just asking to be gathered. There lies the coral sprayed heuchera, a cloud above the dark hued leaves; beyond, a drift of vase formed flax rises through a mat of the low veronica rupestris which, in May lies a sheet of dark purple-blue. The flax begins in late May. the quaint, slender lady tulip (Clu- siana) peering through its grayed, delicately clothed stems; later the heuchera mist shows out against the gray and blue; and later still the tall coral-hung stalks of pentstcmon leaning toward the light, yield yet another picture. This latter (P. bar- batas, var. Torreyi) is not of proved hardi- hood but the gleaming, shrubby tufts and the four foot graceful flower sprays are most engaging. In it parrot tulips are planted that their oddly flaring blooms may sprawl at will on the dark pentstemon or on the white wooly cerastium.
Beauty of foliage is not to be scorned for indeed it is the groundwork of the design. Just as the blossoms of the chry- santhemums dominate in autumn so does the dull, gray green foliage dominate earlier and its grayness should be the key- note, led up to by other minor masses. The light, glaucous gray of the old garden pink lies at the base of the darker, greener rue (Ruta graveolens), which stands clear cut against the even darker, greener mass of chrysanthemum behind. Again the silvered artemesia, shrubby, low spreading, creeps under a gray sage; the light green of Dicentra eximia at the foot of an out- standing clump of chrysanthemums grades up to the high dark mass of aconitum. Here and there gray tulip leaves, flax, and chickweed repeat the tone, binding the whole into one delightful setting for the varicolored flowers.
Does all this seem too crowded a com- munity, too involved a process, too difficult of upkeep? It is not any of these. To me, it is the ideal way. Great tulips have, for some years now, appeared through the mat pink which carpets the peony border; narcissus bloom among the shoots of the lovely little Scotch rose; autumn crocus have a setting of green to set off their naked flowers. This is Nature’s way. Although we may lose some of the beauty of a finely grown specimen, we attain equally beautiful results. To be sure, we find one species perhaps too ram- pant, another too intolerant, but such are surprisingly few and each time I see a garden of individuals, each an oasis in a desert of earth, clean cultivated earth at that, I regret the neglected opportunities.
Planning Feature Gardens for Special Effects
By Stephen F. Hamblin, M assachusetts
[Editor’s Note: These suggestions for the treatment of a limited area about the house are prepared by a professional Landscape Designer. In each case a definite area is in mind to keep the problem concrete. It must not be supposed that any of these plans could be actually carried out in any place that you have in mind, but, modified by local circumstances, they will serve as examples of methods of treat- ment, and even in sectional parts may be adapted to fit into larger general treatments. The planting lists are also to be regarded as sug- gestive, the plants named being regarded as types for which others may frequently be substituted according to availability , personal preference, etc.]
I. A FORMAL GARDEN FOR FRAGRANCE
(See blueprint plan, page 20)
THE Fragrance Garden is planned to be a part of a larger formal garden, and the herbs used are mostly subshrubs that will hold their fragrant foliage the seasons through. To plant the beds full enough for immediate effect it will take about a thousand herbs, at a cost of $75 to $100, planted. The cost of construction would be figured with that of the larger garden.
Since this garden is supposed to be in a region where box and lavender are hardy, as in the Middle Atlantic States, little snow will cover the beds; so the planting is par- ticularly arranged to be effective all winter. Except for a few herbs whose other charac- ters make them desirable in a sweet-herb garden, the plants hold their foliage through- out the year. Further, the odor of their foliage may be just as strong some sunny day in the middle of winter as when the garden lays full under the summer’s sun. Little emphasis has been put on showy flowers; but many of the herbs have rather small flowers, in shades of pink, lavender, and light blue, which harmonize well with the foliage. In great measure the foliage has a gray-green tone, quiet at all seasons of the year, and the garden might well be called a gray garden.
With this main idea of persistent gray- green foliage, and flowers of pale tones, we can arrange our materials in the beds con- sidering particularly their height and foliage textures. As it is easy to get too many fragrances in a garden of this kind we take a dozen well-known herbs that have in general the odor of thyme and lavender. With this fragrance as the centre of interest of the garden we can add other less fragrant but taller-growing herbs to give a more finished garden effect. Only perennial herbs are used, as when once planted the garden is to remain unchanged for years.
From its very position the garden is regular in outline, and a rather symmetrical arrangement of the plants is followed, though the two sides of the garden are of similar but not always the same materials. There will be a feeling of repose in this garden, but not monotony nor rigidity, as the herbs will be allowed to grow in their own free way.
First to arrange the taller herbs at the back against the wall, and in the corners. Lavender and tarragon balance well, are alike, and yet unlike, and their slender branches show to good advantage against the wall, which is of the softer tones of con- crete or stone rather than brick. In front of these, lower in growth and broader in leaf, more compact in habit, yet not too
different, we will place belts of hyssop, rosemary, germander, and hoarhound. These four are wonderfully alike in habit and harmonious in color. In front of these, as edging against the walk, sweet marjoram and common thyme will serve well. As they grow out upon the walk they should be clipped, unless extreme irregularity in the line of the bed is desired. To fill the four corners of the garden such tall fine- leaved herbs as southernwood and Roman worm- wood are chosen ; or if this gives too balanced an effect more rosemary may be put in one of the corners.
Against the semicircular wall gas plant and sweet clematis (Clematis Davidiana) will give greater height than the other plants of the garden, a different character of foliage and bright flowers in summer. To hide their fall in autumn, common sage, or other broad-leaved herb with persistent foliage, will face them down.
The planting by the arbor takes the peculiar foliage and odor of rue, faced on one side by the narrow leaved lavender cotton, which is evergreen, and on the inside by the broad leaved balm, which has also tfie strong lemon odor. The groups of peppermint and spearmint are of doubtful value in this garden. It seems odd to ex- clude them from a garden of sweet herbs, but they are weedy, die to the ground in autumn, and unless their roots are confined they will spread out into the grass. If we want them w'here we may pinch their leaves as we pass by, perhaps we can put them under the sweet brier roses, and leave open the space that they occupy on the plan, that we may walk close to the sundial.
A small sundial, of form suited to the design of the garden, is not inappropriate in a planting of this sort ; but unless set far enough from the arbor to be in full sun dur- ing the middle of the day, perhaps a bird bath or gazing globe would be better. Its base may be planted with the golden leaved variety of mother-of-thyme (Thymus ser- pyllum, var. aureum) instead of grass, in allusion to the old saying that “Time is golden.” It would be quite possible to carpet the whole central panel with mother- of-thyme instead of grass, but that would give too much thyme odor.
The arbor should be lightly covered with vines, with merely enough foliage to give a suggestion of shade and coolness in summer. The oldfashioned Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), rather than Hall’s variety, will give fragrant white flowers in May and June, while the foliage will be effective most of the winter. This must not be allowed to grow too rankly, or the arbor will soon be nothing else. For bloom in autumn the climbing knotweed (Polygo- num Baldschuanicum) will give a fleecy-
19
white mass of fragrant bloom, or the pani- cled Japanese clematis will do as well.
Since we are not considering the exterior planting of the garden we merely indicate sweet brier (Rosa rubiginosa), sweet fern (Comptonia asplenifolia) and fragrant su- mac (Rhus aromatica) along the outer side of the arbor to carry out the fragrance idea.
II. A SMALL ROSE GARDEN
(See blueprint plan, page 20)
THIS may be a feature on a large estate terminating an important walk, or as the formal garden in a small lot. The hardy everblooming roses and various ramblers will prolong the season of bloom of the hybrid roses, while single roses of many species, will carry out the rose idea as well as acting as a screen for the garden. Hardy spring bulbs give an early show of bloom and hardy phlox will come on after the rose season is largely passed. These plants may cost from $400 to $500, and the work of construction possibly as much more, de- pending on the existing condition of the grounds and the management of the work.
The screen planting of shrubs which ties the garden with the general shrub planting of the estate, and as well gives the garden seclusion from within, is made up of the rose type of shrubs, planned to give a great show of white and pink flowers in June and July, when the garden is at its best, though some of the shrubs, as the flowering rasp- berries under the large flowering dogwoods, that give height to the screen at the north end of the garden, are in bloom most of the summer. The large masses of rugosa roses close the ends of the arbor; these with the hybrids that accompany them will give scattered bloom all summer, and the climb- ing roses and clematis upon the arbors and posts leading from the house will give con- siderable bloom after the season of the gar- den roses is passed. To separate the garden on the sides from the lawn we will try a row of tall posts connected by chains rather than a hedge, and upon these train some of the single-flowered hybrids of Rosa wichuraiana, particularly some of Walsh’s newer hybrids in the lighter shades, to avoid color clashes with the roses in the beds.
To frame the walk to the orchard twro pyramidal arborvitaes are introduced, and a group of dwarf Japanese yew at the end of the central panel makes contrast of dark green in summer with the flowers or in winter with the snow; but for the most part the interest is with the show of hybrid roses in June and such display as the everbloomers give later in the season.
The Hybrid Perpetualsare arranged some- what regularly in the two outer beds, while the turf panel between them and the walk
Rhus
T HE G A R D E N M A G AZIN E
February, 10 15
/. Dictamnus a /bus
G os Plan t
2. Clematis Duridianu
Sweet Clemutis
3. So Isia eft <c in a /is
Sage
h.Sanro/ina incuna Lavender Cotton
5. Ruta grave o le ns
Rue
6. Artemisia Abrotonum
Southernwood
7. A rtemisia pontic a
Roman Wormwood
8. Louandu /a yera
L ovende r
9. Rosmarinus officinalis
Rose many.
10. Artemisia Drocuncu/us
To rr agon
11. Hass opus officinalis
Hyssop .
12. Origanum ru/gare
Swe et tforjer am id. Thymus vu /a or is Thyme-.
!■*-. Aiu rru oium va/gare Hoar hound 15. tie/issa otficinolis Balm
H. Teucrium chamoedrys Germander 17. tfantho spicata Spearmint 18 Mentha piperita Peppermint
19. Thy/., us serpw/ium aureus Golden Thu
20. Buxus
Dwarf
y me suffruticosa
Box .
An unusual scheme for a forma! garden. This is made with fragrant leaved herbs and is in effect all the year
A better than ordinary rose garden, in which color harmonies are studied, and where shrubbery roses are used to frame the more formal beds
February, 1915
T H E GARDEN M A G AZIN E
*21
allows inspection from a near or further range. Four of the very robust growers are placed in the corners— Frau Karl Druschki, the very best white; Margaret Dickson, another white that is very woody in growth; Magna Charta, deep pink, and Soliel d’Or, yellow, both of stout branching habit, in the south bed. In the north bed we then arrange three good red sorts and one more white, making this a bed of con- trast of deep red and white; in the south bed, a similar grouping of the lighter shades of pink with one deep red. In front of these we will put a row of Hybrid Teas, in the three colors — white, pink, and red — the red on each side being on the centre of the beds.
The central bed is planned to give bloom all summer, so the most robust everbloomers are used. The three sorts that make the middle row are chosen rather for their height and vigor than their bloom, for they
are not continuous bloomers. Hermosa and Clothilde Soupert are true bedding roses, and will be all that are needed to give a bed of flowers all summer, but I have suggested using also the Crimson and Pink Baby Ramblers, with an edging of White Baby Ramblers.
We have supposed that Tea Roses will not stand the winters of the region for which this garden is planned, but there is a place near the arbor on each side where the Cochet roses, which stand considerable zero weather when properly cared for, may be planted. If they are a failure, their place may be taken entirely by some summer-blooming perennial as garden phlox, which may be introduced in several points in the garden (not too near the roses) to give color in mid- summer.
The Hybrid Tea Roses should be faced down with some permanent low perennials, such as creeping phlox (Phlox subulata),
white horned violet (Viola cornuta, var. alba), white stonecrop (Sedum album), or other ground cover herb that suits the soil, while thousands of white squills, (Scilla sibirica, var. alba) and spring and autumn crocus (Crocus vernus and Colchi- cum autumnale) in their white forms rather than in the blue or purple, tucked away under the roses, will give interest to the garden when the roses are dormant.
The central panel, too, may be assisted in its purpose by a few herbs. A few thous- and giant snowdrops (Galanthus Elwesii) will wait impatiently for you to uncover them in March, or even hurry the season for you; and some low herb with scarlet flowers, as the coral bells (Heuchera san- guinea) will blaze forth before the roses get started and make a pleasing companion for them through the summer. The planting list follows, the number at the beginning of each line is the reference number on the plan
ENTRANCE PLANTING
ABOUT a COUNTRY RESIDENCE. STEPHEN F. HAMBLIN, BOSTON, MASS
L ANDSC APE Ot SIGNER. NOVEMBER, /?/-7
ric an * Etrn
Burberry
r‘
/<U net MOO dJZZfK’s/
Snow be. rry
. /?e d - fr uiteiL, — LJap an <zs%>
\ChokebernA // burnum
• Maple.
Flowering
Crab
fiburnam
., Japanest
\BorberrL
NA TURA L WO 0D5 OAK AND CHESTNUT
N A TUR AL WOODS
Undergrowth o{ Witch Ha^et
Native Undergrowth
This planting scheme for an entrance and turn-around will make a general appeal. It has features that may be adopted separately to fit smaller places in whole or in part
2 2
THE GARDEN M A G A Z I N E
February, 1915
page 20 ; where a second figure is given it refers to the quantity required.
HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES, 12 EACH
1 . General Jacqueminot 7 . Baron de Bonstettin
2. Mrs. John Laing 8. Margaret Dickson
3. Magna Charta 9. Louis Van Houtte
4. Frau Karl Druschki 10. Captain Christy
5. Paul Neyron 11. Clio
6. Marchioness of London- 12. Soleil d’Or
derry
HYBRID TEA ROSES, 12 EACH
13. Grass an Teplitz 16. La France
14. Etoile de France 17. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria
15. Mad. Caroline Testout 18. White La France
ROSES ON CHAIN FENCE, 4 EACH
Hiawatha
Minnehaha
Delight
Wedding Bells
Evangeline
Snowdrift
EVERBLOOMERS
19. 24 Hermosa 24. 12 Maman Cochet
20. 24 Clothilde Soupert 25. 12 White Maman Cochet
21. 12 Perle des Blanches 26. 24 Baby Rambler
22. 12 Coquette des Blanches 27. 24 Baby Dorothy
23. 12 Souv’r de laMalmaison 28. 100 White Baby Rambler
CLIMBING ROSES AND VINES
29. 4 Rose Baltimore Belle 36. 4 Rose Excelsa
30. 2 Rose Dawson 37. 2 Clematis lanuginosa
Jackmanni
31. 4 Rose Crimson Rambler 38. 2 Clematis lanuginosa
Henryi
32. 2 Rose Dorothy Perkins 39. 2 Clematis lanuginosa
Ramona
|
33- |
2 Rose White Dorothy |
40. 2 Clematis czerulea Duch- |
|
Perkins |
ess of Edinburgh |
|
|
34- |
2 Rose Debutante |
41 . 4 Clematis czerulea Miss Bateman |
|
35- |
4 Rose Tausendschon |
|
|
TALL |
HERBS |
|
|
A. |
Phlox Richard Wallace |
D. Phlox Le Soliel |
|
B. |
Phlox Independence |
E. Phlox L’Esperance |
|
C. |
Phlox Miss Lingard |
F. Phlox Von Hochberg |
|
COVER |
HERBS |
|
|
G. |
500 Viola comuta, var. |
L. i.ooo Galanthus Elwesii |
|
alba |
M. 2,000 Crocus vernus, |
|
|
H. |
200 Sedum album |
var. albus |
|
I. |
200 Phlox subulata, var. |
N. 2,000 Scilla sibirica, var. |
|
rosea |
alba |
|
|
J- |
200 Phlox subulata, var. |
P. 500 Colchicum autum- |
|
alba |
nale, var. album |
|
|
K. |
500 Heuchera sanguinea |
III. ENTRANCE PLANTING
(See blueprint plan, page 21)
A SUGGESTION is here made for the ar- rangement of shrubs about the west side of a country residence and the turn in the en- trance drive. The separate sections of this plan may be utilized for planting much smaller places. The shrubs used are gen- erally well-known sorts, arranged in a na- turalistic way, for screen, show of flowers all summer, and of fruit in autumn. As the house is not occupied after December 15 there is no provision for evergreens. For the area indicated it will take some thousand shrubs that may be planted for approxi- mately $200 depending upon local condi- tions and management. The herb planting may be put in later.
The species chosen are all vigorous growers, bushy in habit, and not easily broken by the rough handling that may be expected along a drive that is much used. Further, these shrubs are not too vigorous growers, requiring frequent pruning or heading back, yet they are able to endure the winters of the northern tier of states, or Southern Canada.
Each species contributes its part to the continuous procession of flowers, pink and white, from shadbush of May until each is laden with its clusters of characteristic fruits in late summer. We further ex-
clude all plants of unusual or striking leafage and take mostly the simple leaf forms of the lilac and viburnum, for quiet effect of fol- iage.
Though a screen, it is not a wilderness of tall shrubs. There are two important vistas to be left open, an unbroken lawn lies south from the house, and the main drive passes through a thick wood before it reaches the residence. The elms, sugar maples, and scarlet oaks, shown on the plan, are large trees, either native, or transplanted as large specimens and are not now con- sidered except that they greatly modify our planting.
As the drive approaches the house at a steep up-grade and with rather abrupt curves the planting along it must be both kept back some little distance from it, and low enough that careless drivers may see over it. Though wide enough for autos to pass at any point, at the place marked “auto space” the drive is further widened that several machines may be left there to stand. To give a feeling of space here the planting is pushed well back against the wood, and a strip kept in turf. One spec- imen shrub or small tree maybe planted here to break the line of the turf, and yet the area will not seem to be taken up by plant- ing. One of the best varieties of flowering crabapple will represent this kind of a speci- men, though a Judas-tree or flowering dog- wood would do as well.
The planting of the oval is particularly to be thought out, as this area is to be viewed from all sides and is directly in front of the main entrance. To give height in the centre, partly screening the drive from the terrace, flowering dogwood and shadbush are chosen, partly on account of their early and showy bloom, but also because they are native to the woods of the region. To strengthen them as a screen, some of the taller refined barberries will give a feeling of defence, while low dense forms, as Wil- son’s barberry and the creeping mahonia, border the abrupt turns in the drive. The barberries are particularly valuable here for their habit of growth, their pleasing leaf and bright fruit, though their fragrant little yellow flowers are not to be forgotten. To fill in at their bases some of the native wild roses are effective in leaf, flower, and fruit, and by their thorns suggest the same pur- pose as barberries. As edging and ground cover no better herb can be found than the Japanese evergreen spurge (Pachysandra terminalis), as it thrives under all conditions of soil and shade. As a second choice we might consider periwinkle (Vinca minor), but it lacks the height of the evergreen spurge.
The service end of the house is hidden by tall lilacs, Tartarian honeysuckles, and high- bush cranberries. Each is in a large group by itself, with lower related species, similar but ( different in habit and flower, to face it down. The idea of a defensive screen is carried out by the tall common barberry and the lower Japanese barberry planted with them. Perhaps there is too much of the barberry type of foliage, but the red
autumn fruit has made a special appeal to the owners of this home.
Along the vistas, under the large trees there are few berry-bearing shrubs that will stand shade conditions so well as the snow- berry and Indian currant. These will make bending masses of red and white berries along the turf, the snowberry in the more open spaces, and the Indian currant under the trees. The western coralberry, a delicate Indian currant in habit of growth, is given the prominent places where it may be admired.
The planting back of the auto space against the wood is mostly of the large- leaved native viburnums, an arrangement favored by the existing viburnums that make the undergrowth of the wood. Across the drive, the undergrowth is mostly witch- hazel, and this fact suggests that other yellow-flowering shrubs may be grouped on this side of the drive, particularly a group of forsythia, to give its early show of yellow bells where the drive emerges from the wood. After their bloom is passed their foliage has a family resemblance to the privets and lilacs, and even to the white fringe that gives the airy whiteness of the shadbush in late spring, but in fruit hangs its blue drupes like its neighbor, the nannyberry.
The elder that borders the drive through the wood may be a continuation of natural plantings further back along the drive as it passes through the meadows near the en- trance at the main road.
Other groups of shrubs that are introduced on the plan bear some real or fancied resem- blance to or difference from those about them. The three or four main types of shrubs (lilac, barberry, honeysuckle, vibur- num) being arranged, these details may be infinitely varied.
The brick of the terrace wall may be partly covered by the evergreen euonymus, the common form where the drive is near to the wall, and the fruiting form (var. vegetus) where there is room for its spread- ing twigs to carry their load of scarlet fruits. Boston ivy will help the lilacs to mask the service end of the house, but if that is not reliably hardy, then Engelmann’s creeper, as suggested for the wall of the service yard, will serve the same purpose. On the porte cochere some vines with not too heavy foliage will be most in keeping. Akebia or clematis (white-flowered species) will appropriately twine up the posts by the steps, while wisteria may drape the structure itself.
IV. A GARDEN OF DWARF SHRUBS
(See blueprint plan, page 24)
rp'HIS may represent the semi-formal A feature of a small place, planned as a part of the living lawn near the house terrace or piazza. Instead of herbs the lower, rarer shrubs are used, chosen for their habit, flowers, and fruit. Unless the site were unfavorable for garden operations the soil could be made ready for $200 to $300, but the plants themselves, from reliable sources, could not be bought for less than $800, a
February, 1915
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE
23
the evergreen shrubs should cost about a dollar apiece. Were other low shrubs, as dwarf spireas and deutzias, substituted for these the cost of garden material could be reduced to perhaps $300, but many of those sorts now named are still not common in nurseries, and can be obtained only with difficulty.
The planting serves two purposes; it partly separates a definite area of turf from the main lawn, and gives a show of color, particularly pink and white, through the spring and summer months. The planting itself is of two parts — that which frames the lawn near the terrace, and the more densely planted area which terminates the garden as seen from the house.
As we suppose the ground rises gently from the house in the direction in which this garden is built the only really tall shrubs which we use are those at the end of the garden, though others are suggested on both sides of the garden, extending beyond the region we are now considering.
First, as to the planting about the en- closed lawn, from the terrace wall to the first cross walk. Some of the new low- growing species of barberries have made an appeal to us; two large groups of them are suggested at the end of the play lawn and a mass of them against the terrace wall. They will be pleasing at all seasons of the year, and will stand the wear of children playing about them, yet they are not tall enough to catch clothing. You may have a feeling that there should be something between these two plantings to break the expanse of turf, but there is not room for masses of shrubs and children. If you wish an evergreen or two to look at in winter perhaps a tiny Japanese yew (Taxus cuspi- data, var. brevifolia) will satisfy you; but you may at length decide that even a pair of them look lost in the grass and so move them elsewhere.
A pair of low trees, as some of the flower- ing apples, will give a bit of shade and color and not take too much room. I have sug- gested Sargent’s crab (Malus Sargentiae) as it does not grow very high nor widely enough to interfere with the simple games
of the children. The roses, and other shrubs that accompany the barberries at the terrace carry out the same color and form of flower as the apples, and are low, dense, and self-protecting in habit.
The planting along the sides of the little lawn is, on the inner side, in the shape of an informal low hedge, of low dense growth, simple foliage, and showy simple flowers. Two similar dwarf shrubs could be used instead of those indicated — say Deutzia gracilis and Kerria japonica, if you wanted the yellow of the kerria.
Beyond the low hedge are irregular groups of other low shrubs which will bloom in midsummer. Again, any low shrubs of neat habit and pleasing flowers may be used.
The centre of interest is the rectangular beds beyond the play lawn. This area is enclosed by shrubs of an evergreen character whose flowers are pink or white and appear early in the season. The soil I have sup- posed favorable for heaths, so many of the low-growing rhododendrons and their kin will make a grand display in early spring. If the soil is unsuited, or their initial cost and care too great an item for this planting, a group of the low summer-blooming spireas would put the interest in this part of the garden later in the season. There should be some ground cover — nothing is better than periwinkle (Vinca minor).
The terminus of the garden may be a tall group of junipers (or arborvitae) with some of their lower relatives as edging. Between these a group of the tender autumn-bloom- ing shrubs (Vitex, Buddleia, Elsholtzia) will be particularly effective in September, in shades of lavender, and they can be made to endure our winters at least as far north as Chicago.
The four rectangular beds have each a particular type of plant on exhibition. One (No. 48-51) bears yellow pea-blossoms in midsummer; a second (No. 44-47) the fra- grant little pink flowers of Daphne in May; another (No. 40-43) displays the horizontal habit, tiny flowers and fruit of the low co- toneasters; the fourth (No. 36-39) shows dwarf Japanese azaleas in a mass of rose-
purple in spring. And each bed has its charm in winter as well. The gazing-globe, which represents the focus of the garden, should be set off by evergreen foliage, as suggested by dwarf Japanese holly (Ilex crenata, var. nana), heather (Calluna vul- garis), and woolly thyme (Thymus Serpyl- lum, var. lanuginosus) at its base.
|
PLANTING No. Name. 1. Tavus cuspidata, var.. |
LIST Size |
Quan- tity |
Distance apart |
|
brevifolia 2. Junipems virginiana, var. |
18-24 in. |
6 |
2 ft. |
|
Schottii 3. Juniperus sabina, var. |
4-5 ft. |
20 |
3 ft. |
|
tamariscifolia .... 4. Juniperus sinensis, var. |
18-24 in. |
IO |
2 ft. |
|
procumbens .... 5. Thuya occidentalis, var. |
18-24 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
Little Gem .... |
12-18 in. |
25 |
12 in. |
|
6. Malus Sargentiae |
2-2 £ ft. |
2 |
specimen |
|
7 . Prunus sinensis, 11. pi. . |
lJ-2 ft. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
8 . Berberis dictyophylla 9. Buddleia variabilis, var. |
lJ-2 ft. |
65 |
2 ft. |
|
magnifica |
2-3 ft. |
20 |
3 ft. |
|
10. Elsholtzia Stauntonii |
l\~2 ft. |
12 |
3 ft. |
|
1 1 . Calluna vulgaris .... |
15-18 in. |
40 |
12 in. |
|
12. Vitex incisa |
1 5-2 ft. |
25 |
3 ft. |
|
13. Rhododendron ferrugineum |
15-18 in. |
15 |
2 ft. |
|
14. Rhododendron hirsutum |
15-18 in. |
IO |
2 ft. |
|
IS- Rhododendron arbutifolium |
18-24 in. |
12 |
3 ft. |
|
16. Rhododendron myrtifolium |
18-24 in. |
31 |
2-3 ft. |
|
17. Ilex crenata, var., nana |
2-25 ft. |
120 |
2 ft. |
|
18. Pieris floribunda. |
15-18 in. |
27 |
2-21 ft. |
|
19 . Pieris japonica .... |
15-18 in. |
35 |
2-3 ft. |
|
20. Leucothoe Catesbtei |
18-24 in. |
25 |
3 ft. |
|
21. Leucothoe axillaris . |
18-24 in. |
22 |
3 ft. |
|
22. Spirtca Bumalda. |
18-24 in. |
120 |
2 ft. |
|
23. Philadelphus microphyllus 24. Kerria japonica, var. |
2-2 j ft. |
80 |
2 ft. |
|
variegata . . . |
18-24 in. |
15 |
2 ft. |
|
25. Lespedeza Sieboldii |
3 yr. |
40 |
2 ft. |
|
26 . Lespedeza bicolor 27. Chaenomeles (Cydonia) |
3 yr- |
3° |
2 ft. |
|
Maulei . . 28. Chaenomeles Maulei, var. |
18-24 in. |
10 |
2 ft. |
|
alba |
18-24 in. |
8 |
2 ft. |
|
29 . Berberis Wilsonae |
12-15 in. |
IO |
2 ft. |
|
30. Berberis buxifolia |
15-18 in. |
30 |
2I ft. |
|
31. Berberis stenophylla |
18-24 in. |
18 |
2-3 ft. |
|
32. Berberis concinna |
t8»-24 in. |
20 |
2-3 ft. |
|
33 . Ceanothus hybridus |
12-18 in. |
35 |
2-3 ft. |
|
34. Caryopteris Mastacanthus |
12-15 in. |
30 |
25-3 ft. |
|
35. Itea virginica .... |
12-18 in. |
20 |
2-3 ft. |
|
36. Rhododendron amcenum . 37. Rhododendron amcenum, |
18-24 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
var. obtusum .... |
18-24 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
38. Rhododendron Kaempferi . 39. Rhododendron rosmarini- |
18-24 in. |
40 |
2, ft. |
|
folium |
15-18 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
40. Cotoneaster horizontalis |
12-15 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
41. Cotoneaster adpressa . |
12-18 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
42. Cotoneaster rotundifolia |
12-15 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
43 . Cotoneaster microphylla |
12-15 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
44. Daphne mezereum . 45. Daphne mezereum, var. |
18-24 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
album |
18-24 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
46 . Daphne Blagayana . |
12-15 in. |
60 |
ij ft. |
|
47. Daphne Cneorum . |
12-15 in. |
50 |
1 5 ft. |
|
48. Genista tinctoria |
24-30 in. |
25 |
2 ft. |
|
49 . Coronilla emerus |
18-24 in. |
15 |
i j ft. |
|
50. Cytisus scoparius |
18-24 in. |
50 |
2 ft. |
|
51. Cytisus capitatus |
12-18 in. |
13 |
I5 ft. |
|
52. Lonicera spinosa |
12-18 in. |
20 |
2 ft. |
|
53 . Rosa spinosissima . |
12-18 in. |
40 |
2 ft. |
|
54. Vinca minor 55. Thymus Serpyllum, var. |
2 yr. |
2,000 |
6 in. |
|
lanuginosus .... |
2 yr. |
200 |
6 in. |
Evergreens as a Screen on a Hillside Site
By W. H. Richie, L"”fa.pI*£'n"'
[Editor’s Note: The plan accompanying this article ( see page 24) shows an average suburban site in which the problems of (1) mak- ing a garden to fit the house, (2) screening from surroundings were dominant. Such conditions are not at all unusual and the free use of ever- greens is always advisable for such a case quite apart from any considerations of their own richness of color and beauty of form.]
THE accompanying planting plan shows the layout of a moderate sized suburban property in the vicinity of Philadelphia. The extent of the property as shown is 200 ft. along the street, with a depth of 165 ft. The hillside slopes to the south with a drop of about 25 ft., or a 15 per cent, grade. The architects designed a Dutch Colonial
house, facing west, with a roomy southern porch and a service wing to the northeast. This arrangement gives an ideal plan, with southwest living room and a southeast dining room, both of which command a good view over the valley.
The first floor is about seven feet below the sidewalk — but the driveway is not too steep for traffic, and though the turn-
around seems large for the place, sixty feet is not too great a diameter in these days of long automobiles. The general layout of the grounds — the drive, the paths, terraces and drying yard — was ail determined with the house plan by the architects. The hill was terraced, so that surface drainage was taken care of, and so that level lawns were available for a drying yard and a play-
house: terrace
T H E G A R D E N M AGAZIN E
February, 1915
24
[y/777/]
NOTE: The firsT numotr ind/cc/tes the. type of plant as shown on the planting list; the second the quant/ tip in the hed
Shrubs
CROQUET LAWN.
Planting plan for a garden in which flowering shrubs are chiefly featured. It has the advantage of permanency with continuous and changing interest at all seasons. The specilicat ions
are given on page 23. S. F Hamblin, Designer
W
Planting- jw
■ ) • Jor- a-
^Hillside- Property*
■ Evergreens
3*C-No Variety- 5ec Tto Variety
1 • 1 • Pine- Austrian \z 3 Pine-5tN»i5 Jit'n
Z-4 " White 13 3 " Mugho
3 • 2 ■ Spruce- Douglass- 14 10 Retmospora m -Variety -4 '5- " • Norway 15 4 Yew Japanese
5 ■ 5 " -Oriental- It- 7- Arb<*r Vitae in Var
4> - 13 " -Hemlock- 17- *• Juniper • D*»arf m-thr
7 l Fir - T^orJman- 18-8 Bo< Globe &P*jratn
6 1 " • Concolor- 19 4 MaKoma & 1 ley- C*en
9- 1 *' • Cepha toman 20 *o Azalea tfioocWge«i.
10- 1 VeitcVies 21'*- Luonymoub Japomca
ill- I •• Frazer's- 22-24 RboJo<3encl»On Hybr
• D ec \ d vo os- Plan ts
23 -3 Cornws • ^loridus 44-12- Cornus • 5ib 5an 79a* <ztc
24 3* 5pirea • callosa elbo 45 3 Car pious Americana 23 3 Hhodotypos kcrrioid *6 -7- 5ali» Incana-
Zb 1 Chiononthus Amcr 47 7- Ll«agna3 Parvifter® 27 3 Spirea . Van Roatci- 4 gS Li strum A mar enl* 26 3- Euonymous Alatu* 49 l- Coryl u> F^r^ure*
29 5 Cornua- p. -1-V«r- rubr-ao-5- Cere is Canadensis
30 7 Symphoeicarpus r*< 31 I- E-Xockordd ^raml'ifl
31 ft C>*<-berris- Thur,brrgi32 S Rhus ■ ty l»"ia- etc 32-12- Lustrum J?«ge l/an«.»i 53-U Wyc1ra*->g<?ei Pan- Gr
33 3- 5 1 yra* Japonic* 34 U- Brr berris & SympTi in
34 -3 Viburnum tomen'to- 33-zl Forsytes inVar (l vJav” ii
S3 1 Acer polyrnorpYiurn 34 17 Ozulx.a graollb S.JVrt>- 3t 3 Aralie -p«nta pbyllo 37 7 Berber ris Tbunncrg’u 37 > C emus floricta 38 '50- Pere ooiai.3 in Variety
3* 3 Lon'.cero j ro grant 1 38- C Y/e«gc)a ■ earn* & L Ralli 39 3- Deutzia PofRoch- bo S Vi burn p/ici Philad cer-
-40 3 Acer Tartar Gin tl S’ Spirca _A1 10- Stjrin 30 in Variety fcZ- 7- F©c**j-»hi« suspvnca _42- 3 QxycWnJr Arbor- t3 3 .Ptfulxia l_*meinei 43 I Cr.itecgos.Corclala t4-> Ace» lap in V«)r
In this garden evergreens are featured because they give effects in the winter as well as in the summer. The taller kinds are used to give permanent screen. W. H. Richie, Designer.
See page 23
February, 1915
T H E G A R 1) E N M A G A Z I N E
25
ground, as well as a fairly level platform for the house to rest upon. The latter was especially desirable for a colonial house.
The landscape designer was called in after all this was graded and the lawn well established. The client desired to have a planting scheme which would recognize the following conditions:
The owner of this property lived across the street to the northwest and did not wish his view of the valley obstructed in any way by the planting upon the new place — not even by a hedge. He wished to give the house a good setting and also insure privacy to the service quarters. A semi-pri- vate lane along the eastern boundary had to be screened, and the service path to the kitchen door should be as private as possible. A plantation was needed between the driveway turn- around and the top of the second ter- race, so that traffic would apparently be kept from sliding off down the bank. And yet plants must be used which would not grow too tall or those which would stand shearing or careful pruning. Shade was very much needed on the southwest corner of the house.
In order to obtain this quickly, three trees were planted quite close together — using trees of a fan-shaped type, so that neither the view nor the summer breeze would be ob- structed. The elm will probably be re- tained as the per- manent tree.
Another requisite was to enhance, if possible, the south- ern view over Jersey farm land. The plan shows how the cen- tral section of the boundary was ! left open, and the wild cherry trees which were already grow- ing just beyond the boundary line were reinforced with specimen ever- greens. A grove of fir trees was planted in the southwest corner, so as to ulti- mately break the skyline here and concentrate one’s at- tention on the best part of the view — toward two distant hills. This grove is balanced by pines in the southeast corner.
The drying yard was bounded on two sides by retaining walls; along the top of
each wall some planting of a defensive nature was necessary to keep one from walk- ing over the edge.
These were the most important planting
problems to be considered, and the manner in which they were solved will be apparent after a study of the plan and the horticul- tural specifications.
The proper screening of the eastern boun-
dary was of great importance, not only for the sake of privacy from the daily traffic up and down the lane, but so that the neighbor to the eastward should not have to look right into the kitchen door. As the residence is for occupation throughout the year, it seemed neces- sary to use evergreens of a dense bushy growth for the backbone of the plant- ation. In fifteen or twenty years, these specimens, though planted about twelve to fifteen feet apart, should make a dense and compact screen, and because of their variety, a very pleasing composi- tion in color and texture should result.
Hemlock spruce, because of its long life and graceful, feathery foliage, is used in the main, with Oriental and Douglas spruces for accents in the border. A few Norway spruce, because of their fast growth and low cost were used as fillers in temporary positions.
For the sake of immediate screen- ing a large number of small trees and shrubs have been used in among the spruces. The key to the plan gives the names and number of plants used in the various sections of the plantations. White dogwoods for their early flowering and autumn red berries; Oxyden- drum or sorrel tree for its interesting “ lily-of- the- valley ” flower and wonder- ful crimson autumn foliage; the dwarf Tartarian maple, for its beautiful dense and persistent foli- age; the cordata or Washington haw- thorn for its color and fruit, as well as giving more height to the plantation ; and a good assort- ment of lilacs for their flowers are used along the eastern boundary. The Cornus family is re- presented by several species: the san- guinea and Siberian for their red bark, which is especially interesting in fall and wi n ter ; the s tolo- nifera aurea for its contrasting yellow bark, as an accent where such is needed ; and the pan- iculata and mascula for their white and red berries respectively.
A few other trees not listed in the key — such as Ailanthus glandulosa, Aralia japon- ica and Amelanchier canadensis — are used as temporary accents.
A well balanced fruit garden for the average surburban lot, on